Sicily is one of my favourite travel destinations and somewhere I could visit a thousand times without getting bored. The island has so much to offer from its stunning scenery, ancient ruins, beautiful beaches and mouth-watering cuisine. It also has its own distinct character and charm compared to mainland Italy. Visitors are often surprised at just how different Sicily is, with its own culture, architecture, cuisine and local dialect. Perhaps for these reasons, Sicily can be slightly daunting for first-time visitors. There are so many blog posts, travel books and YouTube channels dedicated to Italy’s most popular cities – Rome, Florence and Venice to name a few – but Sicily remains quite mysterious and unexplored, despite being the largest island in the Mediterranean. In this post, I will share my personal tips and suggestions to help you navigate Sicily and make the most of your trip to this enchanting island.

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Getting Around

When visiting Sicily, your first question should be “Do I want to rent a car or use public transport?”. Renting a car will give you the greatest freedom and flexibility, but it could be stressful for inexperienced drivers. Luckily there is a decent public transport infrastructure on the island. You need to be quite flexible and patient while using public transport in Sicily, as there is a rather carefree attitude to timetables and punctuality, so leave plenty of time when travelling to airports or ferry ports. Here’s a breakdown of your transport options for travelling to and around Sicily:

• Flights: Sicily has three airports: Palermo, Catania and Trapani. You can fly directly to these airports from most major European cities.
• Ferries: The main ports are in Palermo, Catania, and Messina. You can reach Sicily by ferry from Rome, Naples, Salerno, Genoa, and San Giovani in Calabria. There are also international ferries from Malta and Tunisia.
• Buses: The primary mode of public transport in Sicily. Companies like AST, Interbus, Etnatrasporti, SAIS Autolinee and Flixbus operate extensive networks across the island. I suggest searching for routes, prices and timetables on Omio. You can buy tickets directly from Omio, and download them as e-tickets onto your phone.
• Trains: Whilst a lot of Sicily isn’t connected by train, you can reach many of the main cities by train, including Palermo, Catania, Siracusa, Agrigento, Taormina and Messina. The trains are reliable but can be slower than buses, and not all of the island is on the train line due to its mountainous terrain. You can use the Omio website to buy train tickets, or the official Trenitalia website or app.
• Taxis: Taxis are available in major cities but can be expensive. Make sure the taxi meter is running or agree on a fare in advance to avoid being overcharged. Uber does not operate widely in Sicily; use local ride-sharing apps like Free Now instead.
• Renting a car: I haven’t done this personally but have heard it is a great way to explore more remote areas on the island. Pre-booking is advised for the best deals, especially during the busy summer months. Discover Cars is recommended for comparing rental prices. It’s a good idea to rent a smaller car as Sicily has a lot of narrow streets and tight roads, and pay for the full insurance in case of bumps and scratches (Sicilians have a reputation for being crazy drivers!).

Must-Visit Places in Sicily

Each region of Sicily has attractions worth visiting, but here are some of the highlights to include in your itinerary:

• Agrigento/The Valley of Temples: Built between 510 BC and 430 BC, this UNESCO World Heritage site consists of eight temples (and various other ruins) including the iconic Temple of Concordia. The Valley of Temples is the most important archaeological site in Sicily because the Greek temples here are some of the best-preserved in the world. 
• Mount Etna: Europe’s highest and most active volcano dominates the landscapes of Eastern Sicily at 3,295 metres (10,810 feet). You can take a guided tour to explore its craters, lava flows, and unique landscape. Take a cable car up to 2,900 metres to experience the breathtaking panoramic views over the city of Catania and beyond. You can read about my experience at Mount Etna here.
• Palermo: The regional capital of Sicily is a melting pot of cultures that have left their mark on the city’s architecture, cuisine, and traditions. Palermo is vibrant, gritty and rough around the edges, with its own unique character. It’s known for its markets, street food, and historic churches and monuments, including the impressive Cathedral and Palatine Chapel in the Norman Palace. Check out my two-day itinerary for Palermo here for ideas about what to do there.
• Cefalù: A picture-perfect seaside town with sandy beaches, crystal-clear sea, winding mediaeval streets and a stunning Norman cathedral with impressive mosaics. It’s within easy reach of Palermo by train, car or taxi and provides a lovely change of pace from the big, bustling city nearby.
• Catania: Sicily’s second largest city is nestled at the foot of Mount Etna. Catania is known for its Baroque architecture, bustling fish markets, and vibrant street life. Sightseeing highlights include the Cathedral, Ursino Castle and the Elephant Fountain. If you’re curious about trying horse meat, it’s a local speciality in Catania! Check out my travel guide to Catania here.
• Siracusa and Ortigia: My favourite place on the entire island! Ancient ruins, baroque architecture, and charming streets make Siracusa and the adjoining island Ortigia simply unmissable. Siracusa (also known as Syracuse) was once the largest city in the ancient world, and you can find a staggering number of well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins here, along with enchanting Baroque churches and elegant piazzas. You can read about what to do, see and eat in Siracusa/Ortigia here.
• Taormina: Renowned for its Greek-Roman Amphitheatre and spectacular views of Mount Etna, Taormina is a chic resort town perched atop cliffs, overlooking the Ionian Sea. Other highlights include the beautifully-restored mediaeval buildings, Isola Bella island, Mazzarò beach and Madonna della Rocca Church. Check out my travel guide to Taormina here.
• Aeolian Islands: The Aeolian Islands are a volcanic archipelago off Sicily’s northern coast, known for their rugged, unspoiled beauty, therapeutic hot springs and mud baths, hiking trails, picturesque villages (like Lipari and Panarea) and active volcano on Stromboli Island.
• Sicily’s Baroque towns: Rebuilt following a catastrophic earthquake in 1693, Sicily has eight towns in the so-called Val di Noto, all rebuilt in the stunning Baroque style. You can read about my visit to the three most well-known Baroque towns; Noto, Ragusa and Modica. You should try to include a visit to at least one of these towns in your itinerary.
• Trapani: This historic port town is the ideal base to explore the western part of Sicily. Popular one-day or half-day trips from Trapani include Erice, Castellammare del Golfo, San Vito Lo Capo, Favignana (and other Egadi islands), the Marsala Salt Pans, and the Temples of Segesta and Selinunte.

How Many Days to Stay

Planning a trip to Sicily requires some thought; the island is deceptively large, and its top sights are quite spread out. Start by deciding how long you’ll be visiting. This will help you plan your itinerary and make sure you have enough time to explore without feeling rushed. It’s impossible to see everything in one trip, so prioritise the places that interest you most. My 10-day Sicily itinerary is ideal for first-time visitors and can be easily modified, depending on your interests and preferences.

If you only have around one week in Sicily, it’s best to focus on one side of the island. 

• East/Southeast Side: Most tourist-friendly. Highlights including Taormina, Siracusa, Agrigento, Mount Etna and Catania. Visit here if you’re a fan of Baroque architecture, Greek and Roman ruins, UNESCO World Heritage sites and beautiful beaches.
• West and Northwest Side: More rural and off the beaten track. Highlights include Palermo, Cefalu and Trapani and Sicily’s most beautiful beaches like San Vito Lo Capo, Mondelo and Favignana islands. Visit here if you want to go hiking and explore sleepy mountain villages, nature reserves and coastal towns.

If you have three or four weeks to devote to Sicily, you’ll have time to explore the main sights and cities, stumble upon some hidden gems and experience the diversity of Sicily, including the beaches, mountains, mediaeval villages, archaeological treasures, seaside towns, UNESCO listed Baroque architecture and perhaps a visit to Egadi or Aeolian islands. 

Sightseeing: Rules and Opening Times

Along with fantastic museums, archaeological sites and art galleries, Sicily is home to some of the most spectacular churches I have ever seen. Whether you’re religious or not, I encourage you to visit these awe-inspiring buildings. The churches and cathedrals have a strict dress code; make sure your shoulders and knees are covered at all times, remove any hats and sunglasses and pay attention to the rules regarding photography and noise. Some churches charge a small fee to enter certain areas of the building, such as the crypts, domes or cloisters.

You will soon notice the sporadic Sicilian opening and closing times. Many archaeological sites and churches close during lunchtime (often from midday to 4pm or 5pm). On top of that, many sights, shops and restaurants close on Sundays or Mondays to give their employees the day off. Check the opening times on Google Maps (which may or may not be accurate!), look at recent reviews for mentions of unexpected closures, and if in doubt, call ahead to check if somewhere is open. In some less-touristy cities and towns, museums, shops and restaurants close for a few hours in the afternoon (known as riposo, the Italian equivalent of a siesta). These establishments are usually closed between 12-4.30pm, although longer siestas are common in smaller towns. Taking into account the scorching Sicilian summer heat, do your essential shopping in the morning (such as buying groceries) and follow the Sicilian example by having a rest or nap during the riposo.

Food and Dining Out

One of the best things about travelling to Sicily is getting to experience the incredible cuisine. You will find some great pizza and pasta options here, but you should make it your mission to try local specialities you can only find on the island. Sicilian cuisine is bold, flavourful and experimental, celebrating locally-grown produce such as pistachios, lemons, oregano and tomatoes. Sicily has been ruled over the centuries by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish who have all left their mark on the cuisine. Each meal is an opportunity to explore the island’s rich culinary heritage.

Here are some must-try dishes:

• Arancini: Deep-fried rice balls stuffed with ragù, mozzarella, and peas. The perfect snack on-the-go!
• Cannoli: Crispy pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta cheese. You can get yours dipped in crushed nuts, chocolate chips or candied fruit. 
• Pasta alla Norma: Pasta with tomatoes, fried eggplant, grated salted ricotta, and basil.
• Caponata: A sweet and sour eggplant dish with tomatoes, celery, capers, raisins, vinegar and olives. It sounds like an eclectic flavour combination but it really works! 
• Granita: Slushy ice cream with natural flavourings, often served with a brioche bread bun. It’s a popular Sicilian breakfast, and my go-to flavours are coffee, lemon or almonds. 
• Panelle: Chickpea fritters, often served in a sandwich.
• Seafood: Being an island, Sicily boasts exceptional seafood. Try local fish markets and seaside restaurants for the freshest catch.

In terms of the dining experience, don’t expect fast service. Sicilians have a relaxed approach to time, especially in restaurants where you won’t be rushed to pay the bill when you’ve finished eating. Meal times in Sicily may be later than what you are used to at home; lunch is often served between 1-3pm, and dinner starts around 8pm. If you don’t want to wait until then, look for a restaurant or bar offering aperitivo. This means you get a snack or light plate of food included in the price of an alcoholic beverage – a great way to try more delicious Sicilian food on the cheap!

While dining out, you’re likely to be charged for a coperto. This is a fixed service charge that you pay per person for table service. It is usually 1-3 euros (although fancier restaurants may charge more) and the amount should be indicated on the menu. Usually when I pay a coperto, I don’t add a tip but it’s a personal choice if you want to. Small tips are appreciated but entirely optional, and it’s very unusual to tip large amounts.

If you’re staying in a rental with a kitchen, I encourage you to visit Sicily’s fantastic food markets and pick up some fresh ingredients to cook at your accommodation. Alternatively, visit the markets to indulge in irresistible street food. Some of the most famous ones are Catania’s fish market in Piazza Carlo Alberto and Palermo’s Mercato di Ballarò. Outdoor markets in Sicily are noisy, fast-paced, colourful and pungent; a fun experience for all the senses!

Communicating with the Locals

English is spoken in major tourist areas of Sicily, including hotels, shops, tourist attractions and restaurants. However, in rural areas and smaller towns, English isn’t widely spoken so knowing basic Italian phrases can be very useful. It’ll help make communication easier and enhance your experience with locals. A friendly “buongiorno” (good morning) or “buonasera” (good evening) really goes a long way!

Duolingo is a great free app for learning vocabulary, and I love the podcast Coffee Break Italian for practical, everyday Italian taught in a fun and engaging way. If you get truly stuck, use a translation app (like Google Translate) or ask a younger local who might be able to help translate for you. As mentioned earlier, Sicilians speak a dialect which is very different from traditional Italian. However there isn’t an expectation for you to learn this language and I have never had a problem communicating in Italian or English while in Sicily.

Safety

First-time visitors are often worried about safety in Sicily, but statistically the island is very safe; there’s very low chance of anything bad happening during your holiday. I feel really safe when I visit, and find the locals to be genuinely warm and welcoming. You should exercise the same caution and common sense that you would in any other tourist destination; don’t flash cash around in cafes, restaurants or supermarkets, keep an eye on your belongings, do not carry your wallet in your back pockets, and be careful of pickpockets and bag-snatchers in crowded tourist areas and markets.

You might be wondering about the Mafia. Hollywood has certainly glamorised the Mafia lifestyle but it remains a very sensitive topic for Sicilians and not something to joke about. You can’t know if the person you’re talking to has been personally affected by organised crime. The Mafia still has a hold on Sicilian society but it is much less than in the past, and tourists are extremely unlikely to be affected or have any dealings with mobsters. Apparently many Mafia members own hotels and restaurants on the island so it is really in their best interest for tourists to enjoy their time in Sicily and keep coming back. 

When To Visit

The best time to visit Sicily is from May to the beginning of June, and from September to the beginning of October. These are shoulder seasons when the weather is great both on the coast, in the towns, and in the mountains. If you’re a beach lover, September and October will be better as the sea will be warm enough to swim in. Summers can be extremely hot and crowded in Sicily, with temperatures often reaching over 30ºC/ 86ºF. If you can’t avoid the summer months, plan in advance as hotels, resorts, ferries and beaches will be at their busiest and look for accommodation with air-conditioning. The off-season (November to March) can be chilly and rainy, but you’ll have the sights and much of the island to yourself. It’s worth keeping in mind that some services won’t be available over the winter; hotels often do renovations during this time, and some resorts, shops and restaurants are only open from spring to autumn.

Where To Stay

There are countless options for places to stay in Sicily for every budget. You can choose between boutique hotels, low-cost hostels, high-end luxury resorts, family-run B&Bs or private rentals like Airbnbs. My go-to sites for checking accommodation options are Agoda, Booking and Airbnb. If you’re renting a car, you could opt for a family-run guest house in the countryside, known as “Agriturismo”.

Paying with Cash or Card

Despite what you may read online, I found debit and credit cards to be widely accepted in Sicily, along with contactless payments. However, it is a good idea to carry change for markets, street food, petrol stations, toll roads, and parking fees. There are lots of ATMs in the main cities and towns so you can easily withdraw cash when needed, but use only ATMs that are attached to banks. Check your change as I have heard of tourists being shortchanged, especially when shopping at markets or buying street food.

SIM Cards

I suggest getting an E-SIM card with Airalo to have steady, reliable internet access wherever you are on the island. Airalo offers E-SIM cards which can be used in 200 countries. My husband and I have personally used Airalo several times and have always found the E-SIMs to be very easy to set up and use. We have had no issues surfing the net, using Google Maps, buying tickets and making online reservations. Airalo offers E-SIM cards for 7, 15 or 30 days, with a variety of data packages, making them perfect for long and short trips to Sicily.

I hope this blog post has shown that Sicily is a fun, varied and exciting destination for first-time visitors. I’m sure that if you travel to Sicily with an open mind and a go-with-the-flow attitude, you’ll have an unforgettable time and will want to return to the island again and again. Buon viaggio!

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow