It’s time for a personal update! After living in Hamburg for eight years, my husband and I have decided to say Tschüss (bye!) and embark on a new adventure. It wasn’t an easy decision as we had become very comfortable in Germany, but we are both really looking forward to going to a new adventure (more about that later!).
Now that we have sold most of our belongings, donated whatever we couldn’t sell and wiggled out of our numerous contracts, I find myself reflecting on our time in Germany. We knew very little about Hamburg before moving there and it was a huge adjustment moving from Rome to Hamburg in the middle of winter (not recommended!). We definitely experienced several “What have we done? Why have we left Italy!?” moments but we eventually settled into life in Hamburg. There are many things I will fondly miss about living in Germany, and a couple of things I won’t be sad to leave behind. Without much further ado, let’s get into it!
Reflections on 8 Years in Germany
What I’ll Miss in Germany:
The Magnificent Bakeries
If you think I am starting with something frivolous, I suspect you haven’t been to enough German bakeries! They are simply on another level. Where else can you get a warm, flaky Franzbrötchen, a pretzel the size of your face, and a hearty slice of Vollkornbrot before 9am? I’ll miss the comforting smell of fresh bread wafting out onto the street and the delight of eating a delicious, buttery pastry that costs a couple of euros but tastes like heaven.
The Magical Christmas Markets
Germany truly shines during the Christmas season, when towns and cities transform into twinkling wonderlands filled with festive markets. These Weihnachtsmärkte aren’t just about shopping – they’re a beloved tradition where locals and visitors gather to soak up the atmosphere. It’s a delight to wander past wooden stalls strung with fairy lights, the scent of roasted almonds (Gebrannte Mandeln) and sizzling sausages in the air. There’s nothing quite like warming your hands on a mug of spiced mulled wine (Glühwein) and indulging in sweet treats like Lebkuchen (gingerbread), Stollen (fruit bread), and sugar-dusted waffles.
I have been to all of Hamburg’s major Christmas markets, and have also travelled to many other cities to visit theirs. Each market has its own charm, from the grand, centuries-old squares of Nuremberg and Dresden to the smaller, cozy neighborhood gatherings. Visiting Germany during the Christmas market season (late November to late December) is the perfect glimpse into the country’s warm, communal side.
Public Transport (Inner-City Only!)
Moving from Rome to Hamburg, I was overjoyed to be in a city with a fully-functioning public transport system which wasn’t plagued with strikes, breakdowns and buses randomly bursting into flames. Within Germany’s cities, the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses are generally reliable, punctual and well-connected. More on the inter-city trains later…
Germany has a country-wide Deutschland train pass that costs 58 euros a month. It covers all regional trains (not the fast ICE trains) and all local transport, e.g. overground and underground lines, city buses and trams. Even if you’re visiting Germany for a week or two, it could be worth buying if you’re planning to use public transport and regional trains a lot.
Respecting Work-Life Balance
As a Londoner, it’s a sad, familiar sight to see office workers at their desks at 9pm or 10pm at night. In Germany, work-life balance is more fiercely protected. Free time (Feierabend) is sacred, overtime hours are compensated for and using your vacation days (often 28+ per year) are not only expected but encouraged.
Although I have never worked in a German office, all my students are business professionals so they’ve given me good insight into German business culture. The country’s attitude to work-life balance helps normalise my love for travelling and taking sabbaticals. My husband and I were able to travel a huge amount during our years living in Germany, and my students have always been 100% supportive of me taking time off (even for extended periods!).
Germany’s Cultural Diversity
Before moving to Germany, I imagined it as one big, unified country. I knew there were regions and counties, of course, but I had no idea just how distinct the differences would be. In reality, Germany is made up of 16 federal states (Bundesländer) which function much like U.S. states, each with its own laws, regulations, customs, and traditions. I was shocked (and disappointed) to learn that Hamburg had the fewest number of public holidays out of all 16 states(!). There would be absolute mutiny in England if politicians suggested one city (or county) gets more days off from work than another!
Despite the unfair imbalance of public holidays, Germany’s federal states are a huge part of what makes the country so culturally rich and diverse. My husband and I have explored 12 out of the 16 Bundesländer so far, and we’re determined to tick off the final four in the future! From fairytale castles to towering cathedrals, Germany is steeped in history, with every region offering its own festivals, traditions, and quirks.
You don’t even need to leave Hamburg to see this variety in action. The city itself is a patchwork of neighborhoods, each with its own personality. You’ve got elegant Eppendorf, with its leafy streets and boutique cafés; gentrified-but-charming Winterhude; gritty, neon-lit St. Pauli (home to the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s Red Light district); and artsy Sternschanze, full of graffiti, cool bars and inviting eateries. Head to Hafencity for futuristic architecture and shiny waterfront apartments, or over to Ottensen and Altona for a laid-back, creative vibe with plenty of cozy pubs and cafes. Even Blankenese feels like stepping into another city, with its hillside villas and winding stairways overlooking the River Elbe. Exploring the different districts of Hamburg feels like visiting mini-countries within the same city.
Well-Forged Friendships
Moving from Italy to Germany, I knew the social scene would be different. Italians are, on the whole, very chatty, sociable and outgoing. Germans on the other hand take longer to warm up to you. They are typically reserved and private, especially in northern Germany. Socially it can be hard to break into circles, and to be honest, I never managed to integrate into a solely German friendship group. That’s mostly due to my poor language skills and how close-knit German friendships can be, often dating back to school or university.
Most of my German friends I met because they’re dating or married to foreigners, who I met through work or one of the social groups in Hamburg for international folk. If you’re interested in moving to Germany, I encourage you to join all these communities (which can mostly be found on Facebook and Instagram) because they’re an absolute lifeline when it comes to settling into a new place, meeting people in the same position as you and building a network.
I’ve also really bonded with my students over the years. It may take a couple of weeks (or months) for a new student to really open up to me but once they feel comfortable sharing about their families, friendships, hobbies and interests, it makes our conversations so much richer, more interesting and more varied. Small talk isn’t really a thing in German workplaces – they prefer to get straight to the point rather than wasting time on pleasantries – but I’ve convinced my students that small talk is an integral part of British culture, whether you’re doing business or chatting in a pub!
The Nature (and Germans’ Undying Love for It)
Germans treat nature the way Italians treat pasta: with deep respect and frequent interaction. From hiking in the Alps to cycling through vineyards or strolling through dense forests, there is so much beautiful nature to explore and appreciate in Germany. Apparently one third of the country is covered in forests, and cities are dotted with parks and outdoor spaces. That’s why many Germans base their free time on being outdoors; camping, hiking, staying in caravan parks and making the most of the scenery around them (rain or shine!).
Although Hamburg is a very flat city, you’re not too far from the Harz mountains which offer hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. You’re also a short train ride from the Baltic Coast, with white sandy beaches and turquoise water, which is well-loved by Germans but strangely under-the-radar with tourists. Whatever the weather in Hamburg, you can always find people strolling around the parks and along the river promenade. On a sunny day, the lakes and canals are full of people kayaking, rowing, canoeing, on stand-up paddling boards and having a refreshing dip.
Having (Private) Health Insurance
Germany has a two-class system when it comes to health insurance. My husband was part of the public insurance through his job. He made sizable monthly contributions into the national health system and still struggled to book doctor’s appointments without having to wait weeks, or sometimes months.
As a freelancer, I wasn’t eligible for public health insurance and had to use a private healthcare provider. The difference was like night and day. My monthly payments were much lower and yet I could effectively queue-jump to get the earliest available appointments, with little to no waiting. I will never forget the time I had a sciatic flare-up, visited my Hausarzt (GP) and within 48 hours I’d had an MRI scan, been prescribed some hardcore pain relief and started a series of physiotherapy sessions, all covered by my insurance.
Germans are really big on preventative care (which I support 100%) and it was great to have all my annual checkups with no waiting, at times that suited my schedule. I had a short four-night stay in hospital during my time in Germany, fully covered by my healthcare provider. The private room I was in (with an en-suite bathroom) was nicer than many hotels I’ve stayed in!
Feeling Safe
As a woman, I never took for granted how safe I felt in Hamburg, even walking home in the early hours of the morning. Don’t get me wrong – you still need to use street smarts and be aware of your surroundings as in any big city. Hamburg has its safer areas and rougher parts, but I lived in six neighbourhoods during my time there (not by choice – more on that later too!) and I never experienced any crime, harassment, or scary moments.
What I Won’t Miss about Living in Germany
The Deutsche Bahn
One of the biggest shocks of moving to Germany is learning that the stereotype of German punctuality does not extend to its national train system. Earlier in this post, I praised Germany’s public transport system but that was exclusively inner-city transport. The Deutsche Bahn (DB) won’t be getting any praise from me!
If I had a euro for every delayed train, every cancelled connection, every “Wir bitten um Entschuldigung…” announcement echoing through the station, I’d be a rich woman (with train-related trauma!). While I tried to use alternatives like Flixbus/Flixtrain whenever possible, sometimes DB trains are simply unavoidable. It just isn’t relaxing or enjoyable if you’re constantly worried about a train journey getting disrupted and I really feel for people who have to use DB on a daily basis. Will I miss travelling by train in Germany? Nope! My blood pressure needs a break.
The Long, Bleak Winters
While complaining about the weather is a national sport in both the UK and Germany, I have come to realize that I just don’t have the strength of character to handle Hamburg winters. I wish I could be one of those “There’s no bad weather, there’s just bad clothing” people but I’m not. You might be thinking “But aren’t you from England?”. That is true but Hamburg is much further north than London (my home city) and the winters are just…depressing AF.
In other parts of Germany, the winters aren’t quite as severe, but it isn’t a country to visit for reliably warm, sunny weather. For example, in Hamburg you might have lovely, warm sunny weather in May and June, then July and August are overcast, wet and miserable. It feels like for every glorious summer day, there are 47 days of rain, gloom, and that special kind of drizzle that somehow manages to soak you without ever actually turning into real rain.
The lack of sunlight, early darkness and continuous grey from October to March is a serious mood-killer for me. I’m not alone in this – a lot of foreigners start popping Vitamin D tablets like tic-tacs and investing in SAD lamps to get through the winter months.
So. Many. Rules.
I don’t have a rebellious bone in my body (well, maybe just one or two) and even I found the rule-following regime stifling in Germany. There are just so many blooming rules to keep track of and often a self-appointed Regelpolizei (rule police) to enforce them.
Want to do laundry on a Sunday? Verboten. Mow the lawn at 13.01 p.m.? You monster. If you unknowingly make a mistake, you risk a public scolding, an anonymous passive-aggressive note from a neighbour (often laminated for emphasis) or a fine from the police. I honestly don’t know which is worse!
Here are some of the strict social rules for foreigners to learn:
- Quiet Hours (Ruhezeiten) – Most apartment buildings (and even neighborhoods) enforce quiet hours, typically 10 p.m.–6 a.m. and often during the day (1–3 p.m.). No loud music, vacuuming, drilling, or laundry at these times. Yes, even your washing machine can be considered “too noisy.”
- Strict Recycling Rules – I am pro-recycling but sorting the trash is next level in Germany. There are separate bins for paper and cardboard, plastic, organic waste, glass (separated by colour), fabric and old clothing, and general waste. Put something in the wrong bin and you’ll hear about it from a neighbour!
- No Jaywalking – Even if the street is completely empty, Germans wait for the green light. Crossing on red will earn you sharp looks or disapproving tuts from other pedestrians, especially if you’re crossing in front of a child and not “setting a good example”.
- Respect the Bike Lane – Step into a cycle lane by accident and you’ll quickly learn your mistake from an angry cyclist ringing their bell at top volume. It doesn’t help that some of the bike lanes are really faintly-marked and you only realize you’re in one when you’re being yelled at!
You can read about All The Unspoken Rules I’ve Broken Since Moving To Germany and what I Wish I’d Known Before Moving To Germany in these blog posts.
The Distinctly Average Airport
As a frequent flyer, it really annoyed me how limited Hamburg airport is compared to other German airports, like Berlin, Frankfurt and Munich. During my eight years living there, flight prices kept rising whilst the number of direct routes kept shrinking. You often have to fly to another German airport just to reach your destination, even if it’s a major city in Europe. Forget about a range of long-haul flights to choose between!
Apparently it is due to high airport fees and taxes imposed on the airlines, which is why low-cost airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair have been slashing their Hamburg routes and bumping up prices. Many people I know in Hamburg choose to fly from Berlin, Bremen, Lübeck and Hannover for better deals. Coming from London, and having lived in Rome, Hamburg airport was a bitter pill to swallow!
Image by Onkel Ramirez from Pixabay
Lack of Digitalization and Good Internet
As a remote worker, the internet in Germany made me sprout more than a few grey hairs! The country ranks shockingly low when it comes to broadband speed. My crummy home internet would cut out once a fortnight (sometimes for 5-10 minutes at a time) and my exasperated complaints to Vodafone went absolutely nowhere. Apparently only about 2% of households are connected with high-speed fiber optics!
There are several reasons for this. Germany’s decentralized political system (split across the 16 Federal States) makes nationwide tech upgrades tricky. A lot of the infrastructure is outdated, and even in major cities like Hamburg, Berlin and Munich, you can find yourself struggling to find good, stable internet. You can read more about it here: Seriously now: why is internet so bad in Germany anyway?
And it’s not just the internet being decades behind other countries. Public services still love their paper forms and fax machines(!). German bureaucracy is slow, rigid, and incredibly frustrating, even for those with the patience of a saint! I will never forget when a receptionist at a doctor’s clinic asked if she could fax an invoice to me. I stared blankly at her and after a long pause, asked her to email it to me because I don’t have a fax machine at home!
The “Hunger Games”-esque Housing Market
Finding a flat in Germany’s biggest, most popular cities is notoriously difficult, especially for foreigners without an established German credit history and a towering stack of paperwork ready to go.
As mentioned, my husband and I had to move regularly during our eight years in Hamburg, bouncing between Airbnbs, short-term sublets and rental contracts. Without our social networks, we would’ve been completely stuck. The housing market in Hamburg is BRUTAL – apartments disappear faster than you can refresh the listings. Picture the Hunger Games, but instead of fighting with weapons, you’re battling it out with email applications, phone calls, and mounting stress levels. As two foreigners – one of us freelancing, both of us fumbling through with limited German – we knew we couldn’t compete on paper. Word-of-mouth was our saving grace. Without it, we wouldn’t have stood a chance.
So, Where’s Next For Us?
At the end of September, my husband and I are jetting off to Southeast Asia. We’ll be spending three months in Vietnam, starting in Hanoi then working our way down south. After that, we will be slowly moving from country to country for at least 1.5 years (maybe longer). We plan to visit Thailand, Malaysia, Laos, Japan, China, Indonesia and many other countries. We are excited to revisit some of the places we know and love, along with discovering a lot of interesting new spots. I am particularly looking forward to some very warm, sunny weather (with the occasional tropical storm!)
I will be dedicating a lot more time to this blog, with my husband’s help. There’s so much we want to do in terms of writing new content, updating old posts, sharing more of our personal recommendations and helping you plan more fantastic trips (to Asia, and other continents!). We are so excited for this new chapter and hope you’ll come along for the ride!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this tongue-in-cheek review of my eight years living in Germany. As you can tell, there were plenty of things I loved about life there – and a fair share that drove me up the wall. But honestly, that’s what living abroad is all about. You get to stretch your perspective, experience new cultures, customs and traditions, and figure out what really matters (and what doesn’t) when it comes to calling a place home.
If you live (or have lived) in Germany, what are your favourite and least favourite aspects about living there? Please feel free to share them in the comments!
Ciao for now
Izzie, the Curious Sparrow
I spent 6 years in Germany and agree with all of your points, DB timekeeping in particular. When I first moved to Germany, my neighbour warned me train timetables were just there to let you know how late the train was, and he was right! I do enjoy revisiting as a tourist now, but the early days of living in Germany were an education. Good luck in your new chapter!
Thanks for sharing, Helen! “An education” is definitely the right way to describe living in Germany, especially at the beginning, getting used to the cultural differences and nuances 😅
I have never lived in Germany and have no plans to do so, but I enjoyed reading about your experience of living there. It makes us appreciate some of the good things we have in our own country and not take everything for granted. I’m looking forward to hearing about your future lives in Asia and wish you good luck in your new paths!
Thank you! 😀 Greetings from Hanoi, Vietnam – the first stop on our open-ended Asian adventure