Mérida, the capital city of Mexico’s Yucatán region, is one of the most vibrant cities I have travelled to. It is also one of the oldest cities in Latin America, dating all the way back to 1542. Full of historic museums, art galleries, and bustling markets, you can find tons of restaurants serving up traditional Yucatan/Mayan cuisine. There are also plenty of cool bars, showcasing craft beers and tequila-based cocktails. It ticks a lot of boxes for a fantastic holiday destination!

In this post, I will share my three-day itinerary for Mérida, designed to allow you to immerse yourself in Mérida’s electrifying atmosphere, without feeling rushed.

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DAY 1 – AM – Explore the Historic Centre

Mérida is one of Mexico’s food capitals, so start your first day with a hearty breakfast to get you ready for lots of sightseeing. There are plenty of great places to eat in Mérida, but on your first day I suggest heading to Taquería La Lupita in the bustling Mercado de Santiago. Here, you will be spoiled for choice with delicious, local Yucatán dishes, including some of the best tacos I have had in Mexico. 

Afterwards make your way to one of the largest and most visited parks in the city, Plaza Grande. Full of vibrant green trees and surrounded by beautiful colonial-era buildings, with plenty of benches to relax on, Plaza Grande is one of the nicest squares we visited in Mexico. It is also a great spot for some people-watching as, day or night, there is always something going on here, like live music, traditional markets, and street performances. 

The plaza is surrounded by museums and historically significant buildings, such as Museo Casa Montejo. This beautifully restored home from the 1500s can be visited for free, while guided tours are also available at certain times of the day (ask at the ticket office). In the same plaza, you can also find the imposing Catedral de Mérida – San Ildefonso. This cathedral is a classic example of Spanish colonial architecture from the mid-1500’s, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas. With its stonework and bell towers, it looks more like a fortress than a church. Every Friday night there’s a laser light show projected on the exterior wall, telling the story of Mérida’s history through colourful graphics. 

After visiting the cathedral, visit Palacio de Gobierno del Estado de Yucatán. Formerly a home of Meridian governors, nowadays you can find incredible floor-to-ceiling murals depicting the conflict between the Mayans and the Spanish invaders. I could have spent hours gazing at these murals; they were really powerful and evocative. The artist Fernando Pacheco didn’t shy away from the brutality of the Spanish invasion of Yucatán, and how they conquered, oppressed, and enslaved the Mayan people. 

DAY 1 – PM – Markets & Museums

After having lunch in one of the city centre’s many restaurants, visit the Museo de la Ciudad de Mérida. This free museum is an excellent way to learn about the city’s history, culture, and impact on the rest of Mexico. Often, these types of museum can be quite underwhelming, but my husband Ian and I were really impressed by this one. It houses plenty of historic artefacts, models, and photos showing how Mérida has changed over the years. There is also a nice art gallery on one of the floors. The information boards are in Spanish and English, so it’s an interesting, informative way to spend a couple of hours.

Later in the evening, after you’ve had a chance to rest and refresh yourself at your accommodation, return to Plaza Grande, where the evening entertainment normally kicks off around 8pm. Depending on when you’re there, you might catch the Sunday fiesta (which starts at 1pm and continues into the night), or the Monday night performance by Baile folklórico dancers, accompanied by an orchestra.

Ian and I were lucky enough to catch a performance of Pok Ta Pok, an ancient Mayan ball game performed in front of the cathedral every Saturday night. Painted with body art and adorned by feathers and headdresses, two teams of stocky Mayan men try to get a round ball through a hoop, using only their hips to hit the ball. Accompanied by drummers, chanting, fire, and lots of “oohs!” and “ahhhs”, it’s quite the spectacle! There will be a crowd, so aim to arrive before 7.30pm to get a good position with a clear view. 

DAY 2 – AM – Progreso Beach Day

On your second day, head out of the city for some sun, sand, and sea. There are several beaches within driving distance of Mérida, but the most convenient to get to is Playa del Progreso in the port city of Progreso. This beach has calm waters that are perfect for swimming, as well as plenty of space for sunbathing. There are also lots of places to rent sunbeds and umbrella, should the glaring sun get too much for you.

Progreso also has a nice, long promenade called the Malecon, which runs parallel to the beach. Along it you’ll find various shops, bars, and seafood restaurants to pop into for lunch. Prices can be high though, so for something more budget-friendly, head to Francisco I Madero Mercado. We ate here and tried fresh ceviche and a delicious coconut shrimp dish that I am still thinking about! 

If sunbathing isn’t your thing, you can take a short boat ride to El Corchito, a gorgeous natural reserve with mangroves and cenotes. Your entrance fee ($120 MXN) includes a boat ride through the mangrove to the cenote area. There are several cenotes (fresh-water pools) to swim in, walking trails and lots of animals to see. 

Getting to Progreso: Auto Progreso runs a very regular service between Mérida and Progreso. The journey takes around one hour and costs just $46 MXN for a return.

• Mérida bus station: Calle 62 524 x Calle 65 y 67, C. 62 524, Centro, 97000 Mérida.
• Progreso bus station: Calle 82 x 27 y 29, Centro, 97320 Progreso.

DAY 2 – PM – Local Nightlife

Once you’re back in the city, rested up, and have gotten all the sand out of your hair, head out for a fun night on the town. There are many cool places in Mérida to enjoy some snazzy cocktails, such as at Catrín and Cadadía Bar-Cafe, or craft beers at Cuerno de Toro Taproom.

For something a bit different, check out one of Mérida’s cantinas (Mexican-style bars). These lively venues are a great place to rub shoulders with locals, and have regular live music in the evenings. You can often spot them by the swinging, saloon-style doors. One of the most famous in the city is La Negrita Cantina, which has been around for more than 100 years! Wherever you end up though, just make sure you get a tamarind margarita, or anything with Mezcal, chili, and pineapple! Round off the evening with a delicious late night, greasy snack, such as tacos at Taquería De La Unión or Mercado 60.

DAY 3 – AM – Cenote Swimming

One of the most popular things to do in the Yucatán peninsula is visiting and swimming in some of the mysterious cenotes that are scattered throughout the region. These naturally formed, deep, blue water-filled sinkholes were sacred in Maya culture. Not only were they the primary source of freshwater, they were also used for sacrificial purposes and seen as a portal to the afterlife. Don’t worry, nowadays you won’t find any evidence of spirits or sacrifices! Just beautiful, relaxing places to swim and escape the scorching hot.

One of the best places to explore these natural wonders is Homun. This tiny town, an hour’s drive from Mérida, is the self-proclaimed cenote capital of the Yucatán region, with twenty open to the public for a small fee. On arrival, we were inundated by pushy vendors offering us cenote tours. We hadn’t thought beforehand which cenotes we wanted to visit, which was a mistake! After fending off the hordes of vendors, we chose a friendly local guide who agreed to take us to 3-5 cenotes of our choice by tuk-tuk ($200 MXN agreed price). 

We visited three cenotes in the end; Bal-Mil, Canunchen and Hool Kosom. Each cenote we saw was different from one another; some have closed, limestone roofs, others have open roofs when the sunlight can stream in, some have stalactites hanging down, some have bats fluttering around, or small fish in the water (all the bats and fish totally ignored us). I had read that many of the cenotes in Yucatán are polluted with trash and other things left by visitors. Luckily, all the ones we visited barely looked like people had ever been there, and we more or less had them to ourselves. 

If you prefer visiting these natural swimming spots as part of a group tour, many companies offer trips to and from Mérida. The Uxmal, Kabah, and Cenote Guided Tour with Lunch includes a visit to the ancient Mayan town of Uxmal along with swimming in two of these freshwater sinkholes. The 4 Cenotes Adventure and Mexican Meal included includes stops at four beautiful cenotes and features a traditional Mexican lunch. The Full-Day Cuzama Cenotes tour covers three of the over 100 sinkholes that make up the “Ring of Cenotes,” followed by a delicious lunch.

Useful Info for Visiting Cenotes

We took a colectivo (local bus) from Mérida ($34 MXN per person each way). The buses leave from Calle 52 534, Centro, 97000 Mérida. Cenotes are underground, so you access them by climbing down flights of wooden stairs (flip flops/water shoes recommended).  Each freshwater sinkhole costs $40-50 MXN to enter per person. Some cenotes require life jackets, which can be rented at each cenote. To save money, our guide sourced some for us to use the whole time we were in Homun ($50 MXN per person). When you’ve visited all the cenotes you’d like to see, ask your guide to drop you back at the colectivo stop to return to Mérida.

Cenotes not your thing? A fun alternative would be a cooking class! This Mérida Cooking Class, taste of Yucatan includes a visit to a local market to pick up ingredients and the chance to recreate some classic Yucatan dishes. Under the guidance of a local chef and her family, you’ll prepare, cook, and savour a variety of dishes inspired by the ancient Mayans, Spaniards, French, and Lebanese.

DAY 3 – PM – Farewell to Mérida

After an adventurous day of cenote-hopping or cooking up traditional dishes, take it easy on your last evening in Mérida. Pop into some of the boutique shops for some traditional clothes or souvenirs, fill your belly with more amazing Yucatán cuisine, and watch the world go by in Plaza Grande again, preferably with a tasty ice lolly from one of the nearby stalls, before saying goodbye to this wonderful city. 

Where to Stay in Mérida

Mérida has plenty of accommodation options for all kinds of budgets, ranging from low-cost hostels to cosy boutique hotels. You can also find more luxurious hotels with swimming pools and spas, perfect for relaxing after a long day of sightseeing. Take a look at these well-rated hotels in this city:

• Gran Hotel Panamericana Mérida (£) – This newly-refurbished 4-star hotel sits just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral and Plaza Grande, offering comfortable, modern rooms and a rooftop pool.
• Casa Lecanda Boutique Hotel (££) – This adults-only boutique hotel is housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century mansion just off Paseo Mon­tejo, offering elegant rooms, gardens and a serene escape in the city centre.
• Rosas & Xocolate Boutique Hotel & Spa (££) – This stylist hotel stretches across two colonial mansions on Paseo Mon­tejo, and features an on-site spa, rooftop terrace and chocolate boutique (yes, really!).

Getting Around Mérida

Getting around Mérida is easy and affordable, whether you prefer walking, taking public transport, or using taxis. The historic centre is compact and very walkable, with most attractions, restaurants, and markets located within a few blocks of Plaza Grande.

For longer distances, rideshare apps like Uber and Didi are safe, convenient, and inexpensive compared to traditional taxis. If you’re travelling on a budget, hop on a local bus or colectivo to reach neighbourhoods like Itzimná or Santa Lucía, or nearby towns such as Progreso and Izamal. Many hotels also offer bike rentals, and cycling along Paseo de Montejo would be a pleasant way to admire Mérida’s grand colonial mansions.

I hope this blog post has given you some ideas about visiting Mérida and has shown you why this vibrant, colourful city should definitely be included in your Mexico itinerary. If you have any questions, please add them to the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow