Germany’s Moselle Valley is a must-visit for wine and nature lovers alike. Surrounded by vineyard-studded hills, impressive medieval castles, and picturesque wine towns, it is the perfect place for those looking to relax and unwind. 

Located in the southwest state of Rhineland-Palatinate, the Moselle Valley (or Mosel in German) is a true gem. I’ve been all around Germany, and this region is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen. The rolling green hills, winding rivers, and charming little towns create a truly magical atmosphere. You couldn’t really ask for more, especially with a nice glass of wine in your hand! But the Moselle Valley is more than just a pretty face; there is lots of fascinating history here and things to do here to keep you entertained, whether it be hiking, boat trips, wine tours, or castle-hopping.

You probably won’t have time to do everything everything the Moselle has to offer (unless you’re planning a really extended holiday!) so I’ve created this 3-day Moselle Valley itinerary which covers the highlights – from the wine capital of Bernkastel-Kues to the Roman city of Trier, plus the riverside beauty of Cochem and plenty of castles along the way.

Where to Stay in the Moselle Valley

There are a seemingly endless number of charming little towns to stay in throughout the Moselle Valley, so choosing where to base yourself can be tricky. For this itinerary, I recommend basing yourself in Bernkastel-Kues. I had never heard of this town before staying there and was totally blown away by its beauty, with its half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, and easy access to wineries.

Bernkastel-Kues is actually made up of two towns that connect via a bridge over the river. To the east is Bernkastel, where you will find fairytale-like German houses and quaint town squares, as well as a crumbling castle sitting atop a hill. All this comes with a higher price tag, so if you’re looking for more affordable accommodation, stay to the west of the river in Kues. This area is slightly more modern and developed, with several supermarkets (ideal if you are doing self-catering like we did). My family and I stayed in Reisezeit, which was comfortable, spacious and well-equipped, with a full kitchen and large terrace. 

Getting Around the Moselle Valley

Although I am a big fan of using public transport during my travels, there’s no denying that the Moselle Valley is best explored by car. While there are trains and buses connecting the larger towns, you will be limited by where you can go and will be reliant on timetables. Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to stop at scenic viewpoints, visit smaller villages, and pop into wineries along the way. Driving here is a very smooth, enjoyable experience – the well-maintained winding roads follow the river, with vineyards climbing up the hillsides on both sides. 

Cycling is another popular option in warmer months – the Mosel-Radweg (Moselle Cycle Route) runs for hundreds of kilometres, often right beside the river. Keep in mind, there are some uphill stretches on the route which will give you quite the workout!

When to Visit the Moselle Valley

The Moselle Valley is a beautiful year-round desination but it differs depending on the season. Here’s what to expect depending on when you visit:

• Spring (April–May) brings fresh green vineyards and mild temperatures, perfect for cycling and hiking. We visited in May and was very lucky with the weather – it was generally sunny and mild, ideal for river cruises and hikes. However, there were some rain showers so pack a waterproof jacket if visiting in the spring.

• Summer (June–August) is warm and lively, with outdoor wine festivals in many Moselle towns. It is also the peak time for tourists, so keep that in mind when booking hotels to secure the best rates. 

• Autumn (September–October) is harvest season – the vineyards turn golden, and wine-tasting events are in full swing. Weinfest der Mittelmosel in Bernkastel-Kues is one of the largest wine festivals in the Moselle region, and hosts firework displays, parades, and plenty of winemakers offering their products! This event usually takes place at the end of August to the start of September each year.

• Winter is a quieter and cheaper time to visit the Moselle Valley. Although you won’t see the vineyards in their luscious glory, you will get to experience the magic of the German Christmas markets.

How to Get to Bernkastel-Kues

As this itinerary is based on staying in Bernkastel-Kues, here are the best ways to reach the city:

• By car – The two nearest major cities to Bernkastel-Kues are Cologne and Frankfurt, each about a two-hour drive away.

• By train – Bernkastel-Kues doesn’t have its own station, so the nearest is Wittlich Hauptbahnhof. Check the Deutsche Bahn website for up-to-date timetables and ticket prices. From Wittlich Hbf, you can either take a bus or a taxi into Bernkastel-Kues – both take around 30 minutes.

Day 1: Exploring Bernkastel-Kues

Start your trip in Bernkastel-Kues, one of the most photogenic towns in the Moselle Valley. Head to the Marktplatz (market square), a tightly-enclosed medieval square surrounded by half-timbered houses, which date back to the 17th century. The architecture here is truly stunning – you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped into a Disney film. It is easily one of the prettiest market squares I’ve seen in Germany, and believe me, I’ve been to a lot over the years!

Take your time wandering around the Markplatz and along the pretty streets that lead off it, admiring sights like the Rathaus (Town Hall), St. Michael’s Church, Spitzhäuschen, the Bärenbrunnen (bear fountain), Karlsbader Platz, and the Graach Tor (the last surviving city gate of Bernkastel). Let yourself get lost in the maze of cobble-stoned streets, stumbling upon cute little shops, bakeries and wine bars.

One of the best things about Bernkastel-Kues is the gorgeous scenery around it. For a great view, hike up to the ruins of the 13th century Burg Landshut (Landshut Castle). It’s a short but steep hike up to the castle and once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the town and river. There’s also an on-site restaurant to get lunch or some refreshments while you take in your surroundings. 

For something less intense, you can stroll through the vineyards on the Keus side, which have well-placed benches so you can rest your feet. There are also a couple of free observation decks like Skywalk Kurpark Bernkastel-Kues and Treppen durch die Weinberge.

Wine Tours and Tastings in Bernkastel-Kues

After all that walking, it’s time to treat yourself to a wine-tasting session at a local winery. I recommend Weingut Dr. Loosen, located a 20-minute walk from town in a gorgeous estate with steep vineyards behind it. The beautiful setting is the perfect place to try some of Germany’s world-class wines. We were seated outside on their large terrace and given a long wine list, from which you can choose five to sample. A sommelier then gives you the tasters and shares information about the production process, winery’s history and what makes wine from the Moselle so special!

There is also a large shop on-site so you can buy your favourite Dr Loosen wine to take home with you. We couldn’t resist buying bottles of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling and Riesling Beerenauslese (a dessert wine). Tastings are €20 per person and you should book in advance on their website as they normally can’t accommodate walk-ins.

If you’re not able to get a reservation at Dr Loosen, another good choice would be Reiselinghaus in Karlsbader Platz, which has different tastings ranging from €10 to €20. Booking is also required here. The winery at St. Nikolaus-Hospital in Kues is also a good option. This wine shop/museum located in the monastery’s vaulted cellars has more than 100 wines just waiting to be sampled! Tastings are daily between 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. and cost €30.00 pp.

Wrap up your first day in Bernkastel-Kues by dining in a local restaurant. I’m a big fan of the southern German cuisine and if you’re curious about what regional dishes to look out for, check out this article by Visit Mosel. Everything they suggest sounds delicious!

Day 2: Day trip to Trier

For your second day in the Moselle Valley head to Germany’s oldest city Trier. Located around an hour from Bernkastel by the Luxembourg border, Trier was once a major Roman settlement and is packed with Roman history. Visit the Porta Nigra, an ancient Roman city gate, and the Trier Cathedral, which houses a relic believed to be the tunic of Christ. There are also the remains of thermal baths, a Roman amphitheatre, and the mighty Basilica of Constantine, a former Roman palace built by Emperor Constantine.

It’s not just the Roman sites that draw visitors to this lovely city. The city’s Hauptmarkt (main market square) dates back to the 10th century AD and is well worth a visit for its mix of Renaissance, Baroque, and Classical architecture. There are also several other beautiful piazzas and gardens around the city to stop by, as well as the hugely impressive Trier Cathedral, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and the oldest cathedral in Germany!

As you can see, Trier is truly a city for history and architecture lovers! The blend of the Roman structures and traditional German buildings is one of the reasons I really enjoyed my time here. It gave the city a really interesting feel, unlike anywhere I’d been before in Germany. If you’re visiting in summer, stay late into the evening – Trier often hosts outdoor concerts and events in the main squares.

Check out my post How to Spend A Day in Trier for a more detailed travel guide

How to get to Trier

Trier takes about one hour by car from Bernkastel-Kues. However, I suggest taking the slightly longer route via the Ausblicke Mosel observation point. Here you’ll be treated to incredible views out over the small town of Peisport. Well worth a quick pit stop!

If you aren’t driving, you can still get to Trier by train. To do this, make your way to Hauptbahnhof Wittlich, and then catch one of the regional trains to Trier Hbf. Journeys take between 25 and 40 minutes, depending on the train you choose.

Once you’re back in Bernkastel-Kues, it is time for a chilled evening. A great place to visit is Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch. Like Dr Loosen, this winery is housed in a gorgeous estate near the river. While you can book tastings here, what I like about this place is that there is a lovely outside seating area on the banks of the river where you can buy wine by the glass.

Thanisch closes at 5pm or 7pm (depending on the day) so if you want to enjoy some more wine by the river, head out through the winery’s back entrance and walk a few minutes to Moselauen Lounge, a casual wine stand with plenty of seating and snacks.

Day 3: Cochem and Castles

Visiting Manderscheid

The Moselle Valley is castle heaven, so I suggest dedicating a day to exploring a few of its finest. If you’ve got a rental car, drive roughly 35 minutes northeast to the peaceful spa town of Manderscheid. It is a popular retreat for those wanting to relax at the thermal baths, go hiking along trails, or visit castles.

Make sure to visit the 12th-century Manderscheid Neiderburg (known as “Lower Castle”). Perched atop a steep ridge surrounded by thick beautiful forests, this castle is truly a sight to behold. Now, the Moselle region is full of legendary castles and palaces to visit, but this is what I’d call a REAL castle. I’m talking about a proper crumbling medieval fortress, rather than a fancy opulent home (which are still very nice, but not as cool as castles!).

Take some time to wander around Manderscheid Neiderburg’s defensive walls, towers, and various residential buildings, imagining what life was like back then. There are also QR codes scattered around to use for more information. The entrance fee is just €5, which I think is very good value, especially when compared to other castles in the Moselle. 

The other structure you can visit in Manderschied is the Oderburg (“Upper Castle”). This fortress is the older of the two castles, having stood in its position high above the Leiser Valley for more than 1,000 years! You can reach it via a short hike through a forest, and you’ll be rewarded with great views from the top of the five-storey keep. 

Oderburg is free to explore, which is always a welcome surprise in Germany. Another great thing about these castles is that they sit slightly further away than other popular sights, meaning they are unlikely to be busy. If you’re as lucky as we were, you could have the castles all to yourself!

Visiting Cochem

Afterwards it is time to explore Cochem, a pretty fairytale town with pastel-coloured houses and cobbled streets. It has all the charms you would expect from a small German town, with an Old Town full of medieval buildings and churches, a network of narrow, winding streets and plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops to pop into.

The most famous attraction here though is the magnificent Reichsburg Cochem (Cochem Castle). Sitting atop a vineyard-covered hill 100 meters above the town, Cochem’s castle was was originally built in the 11th century. However, it was destroyed by French troops in the 17th-century. As such, the structure we see today is not actually the original, but rather a grand palace built which dates to the 19th-century. Nevertheless, it is a fantastic structure, and a classic example of the dreamy castles associated with Germany. Group tours are available in German and English – visit the official castle website for tour prices and availability.

If you decide against doing the guided tour, it’s still worth the steep walk up the hill and through the castle gate as you get lovely views from its terrace. You will also admire the beautifully-decorated facade up close.

If the weather’s nice, join a short boat cruise along the Moselle to see the valley from the water. There are several tours available with varying lengths and destinations, so choose the one that most appeals to you. KD Köln-Düsseldorfer offers one-hour round-trips for €14 that will give you great views of the riverside towns and lush vineyards, with information given over a loudspeaker in both German and English.

If you are in Cochem for dinner, pop into a classic tavern like Zom Stüffje for some hearty local cuisine and a big frosty German beer (or a small one if you’re driving!). For a sweet treat, stop at a bakery or cafe for Apfelstrudel or Streuselkuchen.

Check out my post How to Spend A Day in Cochem for a more detailed guide

How to get to Cochem

• From Mandershied it takes around 40 minutes to get to Cochem by car.
• From Bernkastel-Keus by train, head to Hauptbahnhof Wittlich and catching a regional train to Cochem station. This train journey takes just 30 minutes, and trains are relatively frequent.

After a long day of sightseeing, make your way back to Bernkastel-Keus for your final evening. Treat yourself to a delicious meal or relax at a wine garden overlooking the river, toasting to your trip with one last glass of Riesling – the perfect farewell to the Moselle Valley.

Got more than a week in Rhineland-Palatinate? If the answer is yes, you could combine this itinerary with my guide to the Rhine Valley for an ultimate trip!

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow