Home to one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, atmospheric Edo-era districts, mouth-watering food, and a laid-back atmosphere, Kanazawa is a city that deserves far more attention than it gets.

When planning a trip to Japan, most visitors stick to the “big three” – Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. However many don’t know that tucked away on the north coast of Honshu, overlooking the Sea of Japan, lies Kanazawa: a compact, peaceful, and beautifully preserved city that’s often called “Little Kyoto.”

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No trip to Kanazawa is complete without visiting Kenrokuen Garden, one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan. Dating back to the 17th century, Kenrokuen is a masterpiece of Japanese landscaping – complete with tranquil ponds, picturesque stone bridges, stone lanterns, teahouses, flowers galore and nearly 9,000 trees, including cherry blossom, pine, and maple. It is easily one of the most beautiful parks I have ever visited!

Each season brings something new: cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, fiery foliage in autumn, and delicate snow-covered scenes in winter. No matter when you visit though, you will be treated to stunning views. Set aside about two hours to wander the garden’s 25-acre grounds at a relaxed pace – and don’t forget your camera!

Admission: ¥310 per adult

Visit the Historic Kanazawa Castle

Just next to Kenrokuen Garden lies Kanazawa Castle, the former seat of the powerful Maeda clan, who ruled the Kaga Domain for almost 300 years. Though the castle has been reconstructed several times after devastating fires, the rebuilt turrets, gates, and walls remain impressive.

You can wander the castle park for free, or pay a small fee to enter the inner castle structures – including the Hishiyagura Turret and Gojukken Nagaya Warehouse – which have been beautifully restored to their 1850s appearance. Take some time to admire the castle’s stone walls, which have been rebuilt using historical techniques and stones sourced from Mount Tomuro. To learn more about the history and significance of the castle, I suggest doing a guided tour to enhance your visit.

The castle park grounds can be explored for free, allowing visitors to see reconstructed gates like the Kahoku-mon Gate and pretty gardens like the Gyokuseninmaru Garden.

Inner Castle Admission: ¥320

Explore Kanazawa’s Edo-Era Districts

When people think of Geisha districts in Japan they will likely think of Kyoto. However, Kanazawa is home to not one, but three well-preserved geisha districts: Higashi Chaya, Nishi Chaya, and Kazuemachi. These historic neighbourhoods, filled with traditional wooden teahouses and narrow alleys, feel like stepping back in time to the Edo period.

During the day, you can pop into craft shops, upmarket tea rooms, and boutique stores, but the real magic happens after dark. As dim lanterns glow and the streets quieten, the streets become incredibly atmospheric.

Discover Kanazawa’s Art and Culture Scene

The city has been an arts and crafts hub since the Edo period, and its cultural traditions continue to this day. The city is home to countless galleries that will keep art lovers entertained for hours.

The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is a must-visit, with fascinating exhibitions in a striking circular building. Nearby, you’ll also find the National Crafts Museum and the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art, both showcasing Japan’s artistic heritage. Smaller independent galleries dotted around the city feature talented local artists – perfect for a quiet afternoon of exploration.

Enjoy Fresh Seafood at Omicho Market

With its location by the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa boasts some of the freshest and most delicious seafood the country has to offer. Nicknamed “Kanazawa’s Kitchen,” Omicho Market has been feeding locals for centuries. With around 200 stalls selling freshly caught seafood, seasonal produce, and street snacks, it’s a foodie paradise.

Keep an eye out for local specialties such as kaisen-don (a rice bowl topped with sashimi) and kano-gani (snow crab), the latter a winter delicacy. There are also several stores that serve freshly-made sushi, such as the conveyor-belt chain restaurant Mori Mori Sushi. If seafood isn’t your thing, look out for Kanazawa curry – a local comfort-food favourite.

I had a lot of fun wandering around Omicho Market with my husband, but if you’d like to learn more about Kanazawa’s food scene and be taken around by a local, you could do a private food tasting walking tour or visit Omicho Market, sample tea in teahouses in Kazuemachi, and try traditional Wasgashi (Sweets) on this Taste of Kanazawa food tour.

Learn All About Samurai and Ninja Culture

There aren’t many things cooler about Japanese culture than samurais and ninjas, and Kanazawa is a great place to learn about these legendary individuals.

For a taste of samurai life, head to the Nagamachi Samurai District and visit the Nomura-ke Samurai Residence. Once home to the Nomura family (a high-ranking samurai clan who served the Maeda family), this restored house includes displays of armor, swords and letters. The latter gives a fascinating insight into samurai life- there’s one letter which expresses gratitude for delivering the head of an enemy! There is also a tranquil garden and tea room on the premises, if you need a relaxing break.

Admission: ¥550

To unleash your inner ninja, stop by the Ninja Weapon Museum. Located in the Nishichaya district, this engaging, interactive museum will teach you all about the tools used by ninjas. You’ll find all manner of deadly weapons on display here like swords, Shuriken (throwing stars), Kusarigama (sickle attached to a long chain), as well as samurai armour. There is also a fun shop where you can purchase ninja-related goodies, like antique Samurai swords and real ninja stars. Speaking of which, for an extra fee you can even practice throwing real ninja stars at targets! 

Admission: ¥800

Admire Kanazawa’s Golden Heritage

Did you know that over 99% of Japan’s gold leaf is produced in Kanazawa? The city has a history of gold leaf production that dates back to the late 16th century – in fact, the city’s name literally means “marsh of gold.” 

Throughout the city you will find shops displaying gorgeous products embedded with gold leaf that would make perfect souvenirs or gifts. You can also participate in gold leaf workshops where you work with artisans to create your own golden souvenir. 

Visit the Kanazawa Yasue Gold Leaf Museum to learn more, or take a hands-on workshop in the Higashi Chaya District to make your own golden souvenir. You can even try gold-leaf ice cream – a shiny, Instagrammable treat that hopefully tastes as good as it looks!

Visit Spectacular Shrines and Temples

Like elsewhere in Japan, Kanazawa has dozens of fabulous temples and shrines to admire. Oyama Shrine, near Kanazawa Castle, stands out with its mix of Japanese, Chinese, and European design elements, and its serene garden – perfect for a peaceful stroll.

Another must-see is Myouryuji (Ninja Temple), near Nishi Chaya. Although known as the Ninja Temple, it doesn’t actually have any connection to ninjas at all. Rather, its name comes from the fact it has various defensive features in case it was attacked, such as trap doors, hidden rooms, secret passages, and other sneaky little secrets that any true ninja would be proud of.  You’ll need to book a guided tour in advance.

Admission: ¥1200

While you’re temple-hopping, don’t miss the intriguing Gyokuryuji Buddhist temple near Myouryuji. Rather than hidden passages and trap doors, you’ll find models and statues of various cartoon characters instead!

Sample Kanazawa’s Sake

Sake is the national drink of Japan, and Kanazawa’s sake is considered among the best in Japan thanks to the climate, pure spring water from Mount Hakusan and the high-quality, locally grown rice.

There are a plethora of bars in the city where you can sample some of the region’s best sake. It’s also possible to visit breweries to sample their products, buy bottles, and even take brewery tours. Visit Fukumitsuya Brewery, Kanazawa’s oldest (founded in 1625), for a sake tasting or guided tour – available in English with advance booking.

Take a Day Trip to Shirakawa-go or Takayama

Although there is plenty to do and see in Kanazawa, the city makes an excellent base for exploring Japan’s mountain towns.

• Shirakawa-go – A UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its traditional houses with steep thatched houses that resemble Swiss cottages. These are called gassho-zukuri, meaning “hands in prayer”.
  
• Takayama – A beautifully-preserved town famous for its narrow streets, morning markets, and pretty wooden townhouses, many of which date back to the feudal ages. Takayama is also known for the Takayama Festival, which is held on two days in spring and autumn. If you visit during this time, you’ll be treated to festival floats and Karakuri performances.

You can get to both Shirakawa-go and Takayama from Kanazawa by bus. To Shirakawa-go it takes around 1hr 30mins, while the journey to Takayama takes just over two hours each way. For ease, I suggest joining a guided day tour from Kanazawa. Here are three well-rated ones to consider:

• Kanazawa Day Tour to Shirakawago & Takayama
• Kanazawa World Heritage Shirakawa-go Guided Tour
• From Kanazawa to Shirakawago and Takayama Day Tour

Where to Stay in Kanazawa

There are lots of hotels and B&Bs to choose between, whatever your budget or preferences. Here are three you might want to consider for their central locations and excellent reviews:

• Hotel Wing International Premium (£) – My husband and I stayed in this clean and comfortable hotel with friendly English-speaking staff. We were unexpectedly given some free pajamas, face creams and lotions (result!). The hotel is very well-located; only a few minutes’ walk from the station.
• Hotel Forza Kanazawa (££) – This hotel offers clean, modern rooms in a stylish setting, just a 10–15 minute walk from Kanazawa Castle and other major attractions.
• Hotel Nikko Kanazawa (£££) – This highly-rated hotel is conveniently located right in front of the main train station. All the rooms are from the 17th floor and above, so the views are excellent!

How to Get to Kanazawa

Assuming you are heading to Kanzanawa from one of the three main cities on Honshu island, your journey will be relatively straight forward, especially if you have a JR Pass (learn more about the JR Pass and buy online here)

From Tokyo:

• Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station (≈2.5 hours). The quickest service is the Kagayaki high-speed Shinkansen train, but you can also use the Hakutaka service. Both services are covered by the JR Pass.
• Without JR Pass: ~¥15,000

From Kyoto:

• Take the Limited Express Thunderbird to Tsuruga (1 hr), then the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kanazawa (40 mins). This route is also covered by the JR Pass.
• Without JR Pass: ~¥7,500

From Osaka:

• Take the Thunderbird to Tsuruga (1 hr 20 mins), then the Hokuriku Shinkansen (1 hr). This route is also covered by the JR Pass.
• Without JR Pass: ~¥9,500