Athens is full of awe-inspiring archaeological sites, world-class museums, fantastic restaurants and some of the friendliest, warmest people I have met during my many years of travelling. This four-day itinerary highlights the best things to do, see and experience in Athens, ideal for first-time visitors.

I was nervous before visiting Athens, as I had heard mixed reports of the city. Some people love it whilst others call it dirty, ugly, and grungy. Many people suggest spending just a day or two there or skipping the city entirely. I’m really glad I didn’t listen to that advice! I stayed in Athens for almost a fortnight on a working holiday (the perks of a fully remote job!) and fell in love with the city. I saw and did so much and am excited to share my personal recommendations with you.

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A brief history of a really, really old city

• Founded in 508 BCE, Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world at 3,400 years old. Known as the birthplace of democracy and philosophy, it’s looking good for its age!
• According to Greek mythology, the city is named after Athena, Goddess of War and Wisdom. Before the city got its name, there was a competition between Athena and Poseidon (God of the Seas) to win the position of Patron of the city. Poseidon offered the citizens salt water whereas Athens offered them an olive tree. The people who lived there chose Athena’s gift and she became their Patroness.
• Greek mythology was the religion during the Greek Empire and remains a major part of the cultural DNA of the country. Many people living in Athens are named after Greek gods, goddesses and heroes, and the myths are deeply embedded into the city. Before visiting Athens, I recommend reading Stephen Fry’s ‘Greek Myths’ trilogy which gives so much context to the historic sites associated with these legendary figures and their epic adventures.
• Athens has been conquered by different countries and rulers, including Alexander the Great and the Macedonians, the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, French and Catalan rulers and the Ottoman Empire. It is the many layers of Greek history which makes Athens so fascinating. 
• Athens was the first European Capital of Culture. Theatre is a major part of the city’s culture and has been for thousands of years. The concept of western theatre was born in Athens and many plays written thousands of years ago are still performed across the city, which is home to 148 theatres.

Where to Stay in Athens

The most convenient and central neighbourhood is Plaka, with other popular choices including Koukaki, Kolonaki and Pangrati. If you want to be close to the nightlife, Psirri or Gazi would be a good choice.

There are some sketchy parts; locals suggest staying away from Omonoia, Victoria, and Attica metro stations and the surrounding neighbourhoods. If you’re travelling on a budget, consider staying outside of the most popular, touristy neighbourhoods. Athens has an efficient public transport network so you can easily reach the main sites by metro, bus or tram. Click here for more tips on saving money in Athens!

DAY 1: AM – The Acropolis and Acropolis Museum

On your first day in Athens, it is only fitting that you visit Greece’s most beloved monument, the Acropolis. Translated as “high city” in Greek, the Acropolis is the name of the enormous hill which looms over Athens. Ancient Greeks believed the gods spent time there, hanging out, getting into brawls, and accepting offerings from us mere mortals.

The Acropolis is crowned with the city’s showstopper, the Parthenon. Built between 447 and 432 BC, the Parthenon is a timeless symbol of the Greek Golden Age and its architectural brilliance. It’s a whopping 23,000 square feet in size and was constructed from 100,000 tons of high-quality marble. Alongside the Parthenon, you can also find the Propylaea (the imposing central gate), the Erechtheion (with its six female statues acting as columns supporting the temple’s roof), and the Temple of Athena Nike. On the slopes of the Acropolis hill, you can also find the Herod Atticus Odeon (a 5,000-seat amphitheatre) and the Theatre of Dionysus (dedicated to the god of wine and theatre – two of my favourite things!).

Even if you’re not usually a morning person, it is really worth getting there early. The Acropolis site opens at 8am and I was literally the first through the entrance. It was a really special moment, standing beneath these magnificent temples with only a handful of people around me. By 9am, the area had started filling up with tour groups and holidaymakers. I visited in March and can’t even imagine how crowded it gets in the summer! There is no shade or sun coverage on the Acropolis so that’s another reason to get there early, when the sun and heat aren’t as intense. Don’t forget your sunhat and water bottle!

To gain a better understanding of the history and myths associated with the ancient monument, I suggest joining a guided tour with a local guide, who can share about the site’s history and symbolism and answer any questions you may have.

If you’re on a budget, you could do a free Rick Steves audio walking tour instead. I’m a huge fan of Rick’s tours, which can be downloaded on your phone and played without internet access. All in all, you should expect to spend 2-3 hours exploring the Acropolis temples, learning about the location and enjoying the panoramic views of the city.  

Useful Acropolis info: 

• Tickets: You can reserve your Acropolis entrance slot online. Arrive at the entrance around 20-30 minutes before your entrance slot to get a good place in the queue. 
• Price: €20 between April-October / €10 November-March.
• When to Visit: The site can get quite crowded, especially during the peak season, and is busiest between 10am and 2pm. You can read about the Acropolis’ seasonal opening hours, free entrance days, closures and ticket concessions.
• Entrances: The main entrance located at the western end, and the side entrance (also known as the Dionysus Theatre entrance) located on the southeastern corner of the site. 

When you’ve finished exploring the Acropolis, take a break at a nearby coffee shop and try some of Greece’s excellent coffee (strong and rich, similar to Turkish coffee) or a freddo (iced) cappuccino. If you’re feeling hungry, look out for a bakery selling fresh pastries like spanakopita (a savoury pastry filled with spinach and feta cheese) or tiropita (a filo pastry and cheese pie).

Once you’ve had a rest, it’s time to venture into the historic neighbourhood of Plaka, a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets lined with bougainvillaea flowers and traditional tavernas. Plaka is one of Athens’ most beautiful districts so spend some time exploring, strolling past neoclassical buildings, art galleries, boutiques and souvenir shops.

Head towards the Acropolis Museum, which is full of archaeological treasures that once adorned the temples on the Acropolis. This museum is a huge three-storey building with a huge collection of artefacts including marble sculptures, statues, pottery, and other relics. Ticket prices vary depending on the season (€15 between April-October / €10 November-March), and the Acropolis Musem has certain free entrance days and ticket concessions.

It would take hours to examine the Acropolis Museum in detail, so I suggest downloading the free audio guide provided by the museum, which gives interesting information about the museum’s highlights.

DAY 1: PM – Exploring Anafiotika and Plaka

After exploring the Acropolis museum, you will have worked up an appetite so it’s time to return to the Plaka neighbourhood for lunch. There are tons of restaurants here, some of my favourites being The Traditional and Énastron. Enjoy a leisurely meal of moussaka (spiced ground meat layered with fried aubergine and béchamel sauce), souvlaki (grilled meat and salad, usually wrapped in pita or served with French fries), pastitsio (Greek lasagna), or the universally-loved Greek salad, while soaking in the lively atmosphere.

After lunch, it is time to familiarize yourself with the city centre and its layout. Athens is very compact and walkable; in fact it only takes twenty minutes to walk from one side of the centre to the other. You will notice the contrast of the modern shops, restaurants and cafes, alongside Greek Orthodox churches and crumbling Roman ruins.

Head towards the Roman Agora, located just north of the Acropolis. It’s one of those historic sites you can appreciate from afar, but if you want to go in for a closer look, it costs €8 per adult during the peak season (concessions available). Check out the impressive Tower of the Winds clocktower built in the 1st century BC. It was a multi-purpose building, used as a clock, weather station and astrological guide.

Around the corner from the Roman Agora is Hadrian’s Library (€6 full-price ticket). Roman Emperor Hadrian was a well-known Grecophile who adored Greek culture, history, literature and fashion so much he was nicknamed Graecula (‘The Little Greek’). He poured money into the city, commissioning the construction of many public buildings including this large library.

After checking out the ruins, take a stroll through Anafiotika, a picturesque neighbourhood nestled beneath the slopes of the Acropolis. I was utterly charmed by the small, whitewashed cottages and narrow alleyways lined with flowers. It has a dreamy, almost Greek-island vibe, along with some very cool street art.

As the sun goes down, enjoy a volta (a leisurely stroll) along the main streets of Athens. One of my favourite streets in the centre is the wide, paved promenade Dionysiou Areopagitou, which is lined by neoclassical mansions, Art Deco architecture, monuments and street performers. Choose a cozy taverna for a memorable first dinner, indulging in some traditional Greek dishes paired with local wines. If you’d like a nightcap, check out Heteroclito (a really cool wine bar which specialises in natural wine) or MS Garden (one of Athens’ most popular rooftop bars).

Day 2: AM – Syntagma Square, Greek Orthodox Churches and Monastiraki

Start your second day in Syntagma Square, the central hub of Athens. Syntagma means “constitution” and it is the site where the citizens of Greece were offered a democratic constitution by King Otto. This square remains an important political and cultural spot. Five minutes before each hour (e.g. 9.55am, 10.55am) you can watch the ceremonial Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, located in front of the Greek Parliament building.

The guards are called Evzone (an elite unit of the Greek army) and you can watch them perform their choreographed routine every hour whilst dressed in white britches, pleated kilts and shoes with pom-poms. On Sundays at 11am, the ceremony is extra spectacular as the Evzones are accompanied by a marching band.

From Syntagma Square, walk along Ermou Street, the main shopping street in the city. This pedestrianised street is full of well-known brands and high street shops. Make your way to Panagia Kapnikarea, a beautiful Eastern Orthodox church built in the 11th and 12th centuries. It was built in the classic Orthodox style, with typical features like a wooden pulpit, tall arches, a central dome and beautiful wall paintings.

A few streets away is Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary (Athens Cathedral). Built in 1842, it is lavishly designed with a grand facade and colourful paintings and icons. It is the seat of the Archbishop (the head of the Greek Orthodox church), which explains the splendour. For €3 you can go into the lower vault of the church, where all sorts of treasures are on display, dating back 400 years.

Don’t skip the much smaller church next door, which is called Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutheriu. This small, spartan church was built on the ruins of a temple, and is made almost entirely from reused stones. It has almost one hundred carved crosses adorning the exterior, which belonged to ancient temples from different time periods. During the Ottoman period, this church served as Athens’ cathedral and is an intriguing example of Byzantine architecture.

Walking west from the churches, you will soon enter Monastiraki Square, a bustling neighbourhood known for its vibrant flea market. It is a great spot for people-watching, buying fresh fruit from street vendors or grabbing a coffee. Browse through stalls selling antiques, jewellery, clothing, handmade crafts, and souvenirs, looking for bargains.

If you’re a seafood fan, stop for lunch at one of my favourite restaurants in Athens – Atlantikos. The quality of the fish here is incredible and it’s excellent value for money. If you’re craving a sweet treat after, cross Ermou Street for a delicious ice cream at the Italian gelateria Gelato di nonna.

Day 2: PM – Ancient Agora

Suitably satiated, it’s time to visit the Ancient Agora. Meaning “gathering place”, it was once the heart of Athenian life. It served as a marketplace, a meeting place, and the social, political, and commercial hub of the city. People came here to shop, socialise, network, do business deals, pass laws, and hold philosophical debates. On this site, there were once gleaming white marble buildings, statues, fountains, altars, and temples. Nowadays, in the Ancient Agora you can find:

• The Stoa of Attalos (a large, reconstructed building that once served as a shopping arcade, which now houses a small, well-curated museum – entrance is included in your Agora ticket)
• The Temple of Hephaestus (Built in the fifth century BC, this stunning Doric temple is one of the best-preserved temples in Greece and was dedicated to Hephaestus, the god of metalworking and craftsmanship)
• The Church of the Holy Apostles (built in the year 1000 while Athens was under the protection of the Byzantine Empire)
• The Odeon of Agrippa (a huge theatre where some of Athens’ earliest plays were performed)
• The Statue of Hadrian (The Roman Emperor and well-known Grecophile whose library we saw the day before)

Take a seat on one of the many benches and absorb the serene ambiance, imagining the crowds and animated discussions that took place there thousands of years ago. Rick Steves has an interesting free audio guide for the Ancient Agora, and he really brings the area to life.

It may look like rubble today, but the Ancient Agora was once the centre of political speeches, ceremonies, demonstrations and announcements, a place used for concerts, poetry readings, plays and parades, including the annual Panathenaic parade celebrating the Goddess Athena’s birthday. It’s where Socrates socialised and debated with his peers, urging them to “know thyself”. It’s also where Socrates was arrested, charged with “corrupting the youth” and sentenced. It’s where his disciple Plato taught and shared ideas which are still influential today, alongside his own disciple Aristotle. 

For dinner, cross Monastiraki Square and venture to the trendy neighbourhood of Psiri, known for its vibrant nightlife and bohemian vibes. Here you can find a variety of restaurants offering both traditional Greek and international cuisine, and as the night goes on, you can move on to one of Psiri’s clubs or bars, enjoying live Greek bands and DJs.

Day 3: Food Tours & Day Trips

On your third day in the city, there are several fun alternatives to choose between:

• Delphi day trip: One of the most popular day trips from Athens is Delphi, located approximately 120 miles northwest of the city. You can visit Delphi independently via public bus or car, but it’s easiest to join a group tour like I did. I did the Delphi Day Tour with Museum & Arachova Village Visit which included a well-organised guided tour of the archaeological site and Delphi museum (home to an impressive collection of artefacts unearthed from the site). 
  • Read all about my day trip to Delphi – How to Visit Delphi from Athens: Essential Guide for First-Time Visitors

• A food tour: I really enjoyed my tour with Food Around Athens. It was a small group (myself, another tourist and the guide) and together we visited the Varvakios Central Municipal Market, as well as shops and food vendors close to the market. We sampled locally-produced olive oil, honey, herbs, olives, freshly-made Spanakopita, calamari, Kolokithokeftedes (fried courgette balls), salami, cheese, Greek coffee, and an incredible cake called Portokalopita, made with orange and syrup. The guide was really knowledgeable, friendly and funny and taught us a lot about Greek cuisine, culture, traditions, and history.
• If the Food Around Athens tour isn’t available on your preferred dates, check out Local Market and Shops Greek Food Tour with Tastings, Ultimate Food Walking Tour with 15 Tastings and Street Food Tasting Tour all sound fantastic.
• A cooking class: If you’re a fan of cooking and eating, why not do a cooking class? Food Market Visit and Cooking Class with Wine starts with a visit to Varvakios Central Municipal Market to buy ingredients, then a cooking class alongside a local chef. Discover Greek Food with a Class & 3-Course Dinner teaches you how to make a full menu of delicious Greek food, whilst Greek Traditional Vegan Cooking Class with Meal shows fans of Greek cuisine how to make classic dishes vegan-friendly. 

• The Port of Piraeus: If you’d like to get out of the city centre but not travel too far, consider visiting the port of Piraeus (just 7 miles/12 km and reachable by metro/tram). It’s a massive passenger port, but also a pleasant coastal town where you can find an archaeological museum, beautiful churches, a maritime museum, an electric railway museum, and restaurants serving up some of the freshest and tastiest seafood in Greece. A popular day trip to do from Piraeus is a cruise to three nearby islands; Agistri, Moni and Aegina. Click here to compare Port of Piraeus tours.
• Walking or Biking Tours: If you’re in the mood for more exploring, sign up for a guided tour. There are tons to choose between, including the classic Athens Free Walking Tour (not actually free – it’s tip-based so you pay what you think the tour is worth). Popular tour companies in Athens include Free Tour, Guru Talk and Athens Free Walking Tour.
• For a more unique, niche tour, you could book a History of Rebellion Walking Tour, Off the Beaten Track Private City Walking Tour, Guided Mythological Walking Tour, Guided Urban Street-Art Tour led by passionate local guides.
• Cape Sounion: One of the most popular tours from Athens is to Cape Sounion, a scenic peninsula along the Athenian Riviera. Here you can find the Temple of Poseidon, perched atop the cliffs overlooking the sparkling Aegean Sea. The most convenient would definitely be a private tour; Discover Cape Sounion & Temple of Poseidon at Sunset and Cape Sounion & Temple of Poseidon Half Day Tour both have excellent reviews.

Day 4: AM – Ancient Ruins and Central Market

Start your final day at the Panathenaic Stadium, the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. This is where the first modern Olympic Games were held in 1896 (Athens also hosted the Olympics more recently in 2004). The Panathenaic stadium has space for 80,000 spectators, and you can pay to enter and walk around it. You can read about Panathenaic Stadium ticket prices and entry hours here.

From there, walk to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, one of the largest ancient temples in Greece, dating back to the 6th century BC. It was finally completed 700 years later by Emperor Hadrian. In its heyday, it had over a hundred huge Corinthian columns and a 40-foot statue of Zeus, but nowadays only 15 of the original 104 columns remain and it looks quite neglected. Due to this, I don’t suggest going inside, but you can view it free of charge through the fence. 

Next to the Temple of Olympian Zeus is the Arch of Hadrian, built 2000 years ago for (you guessed it!) Emperor Hadrian. It was designed in the classic Roman style, and is made of Pentelic marble (same as the Parthenon). It was built to draw a clear line between Greek Athens and the new Roman city Hadrian envisioned called Hadrianopolis. One side of the arch is inscribed with the message: “This is Athens, ancient city of Theseus” and on the other side “This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus”. It shows that even powerful emperors could be petty!

Now zigzag your way through the Plaka neighbourhood to the Varvakeios Central Market. If you didn’t visit the market the day before during a tour, take some time to wander through the stalls. You will find some incredibly fresh fish and seafood, and all kinds of meat on sale (including every organ you can imagine!).

You can also find budget-friendly restaurants around the market, so it’s a good place to stop for lunch. You might also want to pick up some souvenirs and gifts to take home with you, such as olives (which can be vacuum-packed), cured meat, locally-produced honey, feta cheese, herbs, spices and loose leaf tea. The market is open daily from 8am to 6pm (closed on Sundays)

Day 4: PM – National Archaeological Museum of Athens

After lunch, I suggest visiting another one of Athens’ amazing museums; the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. It has an incredible collection of art and artefacts from all corners of Greece. You can find pottery, gold and silver jewellery, sculptures, weapons, household items and ancient bronze tools. Highlights include the gold death Mask of Agamemnon, the Bronze Statue Of Zeus Or Poseidon, the Marble Statue Of Poseidon, and the Bronze Statue Of Emperor Augustus. Again my trusted friend Rick Steves has a great free audio guide for you. You can buy e-tickets in advance and read about the museum’s opening times and seasonal entrance prices.

If the archaeological museum doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, here are some popular alternatives:

• Benaki Museum of Greek Culture – A huge collection of Byzantine art, pottery, costumes, paintings, jewellery, crockery, mosaics and bronze items dating from the neolithic to the 20th century. It is free entry every Thursday from 6 pm to midnight.
• Benaki Museum of Islamic Art – A well-curated collection of paintings, jewellery, textiles, carpets, tiles, pottery, sculptures and mosaics.
• War Museum – This museum tells the history of Greek wars, starting from Ancient Greece to Alexandria of Macedonia, the Roman era, the Persians, the 1821 War of Independence, World War I and II and the Balkan Wars. 
• Museum of Cycladic Art – A collection of Ancient Greek and Cypriot artefacts ranging from 4th millennium BC to 6th century AD.
• The National Art Gallery – A private collection including Greek artists like El Greco, Lytras, Parthenis, Moralis and Mytaras, and foreign artists like Delacroix, Picasso and Rodin.

For your last evening in Athens, visit Mount Lycabettus. Rising 300m above the city, you can hike up or take the funicular in the Kolonaki neighbourhood to the top (€8 one-way or €10 return). It is the highest point in the city, offering panoramic views of Athens. Time it right and you might see one of Athens’ gorgeous sunsets. 

When to visit Athens

The best time to visit Athens is in the spring and autumn, as the summer can be extremely warm and sunny, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C. Due to its coastal location, Athens experiences high humidity, so keep this in mind when packing and look for accommodation with air conditioning. If your only option is to visit in the summer, do your sightseeing early in the day when attractions open, and spend your afternoons in air-conditioned museums. Regardless of the season, stay well-hydrated, and always carry a sunhat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Click here for more tips for first-time visitors to Athens!

I hope this itinerary has given you lots of ideas about how to spend four days in Athens. The Greek capital is truly a city of contrasts; ancient and modern, chaotic and charming. I am sure you’ll have an unforgettable time in Athens, and it won’t be long until you’re planning a return visit!

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow