Fes had been on my Morocco bucket list for years – a city said to be more authentic, atmospheric, and less overwhelming than Marrakech. While Marrakech dazzles with its colour and chaos (and, let’s be honest, crowds), Fes moves at a slower pace.

Visiting in early November – outside of the peak tourist season – my husband and I found the medina (Old Town) relaxed, restaurants uncrowded, and the maze-like alleyways more magical than stressful.

If you’re planning a short break in Fes, here’s everything you need to know: where to stay, what to see, what to eat, and how to make the most of 48 hours in Morocco’s cultural capital.

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How to Get to Fes

We arrived late at night and I highly recommend pre-arranging a transfer with your riad (traditional Moroccan guesthouse). Ours charged €25; more than a standard taxi, but worth every cent to avoid dragging luggage through the medina in the dark. Trust me, finding your riad without help is nearly impossible!

Where to Stay in Fes

Staying in a riad is a highlight in itself! We stayed in Dar Rbab, a beautiful traditional riad with an inner courtyard where sunlight streams in during the day. Rooms face inward (not onto the street), which keeps things quiet but can feel dim at night. Breakfast more than made up for it though: omelette, pancakes, crepes, bread, homemade jams, mint tea and strong coffee – the perfect start to our sightseeing days.

If Dar Rbab isn’t available, check out these well-rated alternatives for different budgets:

• Riad Qamar Fez ($) – A cozy, budget-friendly riad with traditional Moroccan charm, offering a peaceful rooftop and easy access to the medina’s main sights.
• Riad Damia Suite & Spa ($$) – Elegant and serene, this mid-range riad features spacious suites, spa services, and a relaxing courtyard just outside the medina.
• Riad Dar Laura ($$$) – A luxurious retreat near the Blue Gate, combining gorgeous Moorish design with modern comforts like a stylish rooftop terrace.

Shopping in Fes

The Fes Medina is one of the world’s largest car-free urban zones — a labyrinth of tiny streets and alleys filled with stalls selling jewellery, slippers, carpets, ceramics, spices, and everything in between. The real magic is in the details: the tiled archways, carved doorways, and kaleidoscopic patterns that seemed to decorate every corner. We quickly learned that maps (even Google Maps!) don’t work well here. We didn’t stress about it and embraced getting lost, again and again. Luckily there was some eye-catching street art a few metres from our riad, which helped with navigation.

There were lots of teenage boys (and younger) hanging around street corners, offering to help tourists find their way. We found our way without them (which would have involved a €2-3 tip), but if you’re arriving after dark or feeling turned around, their help could be useful.

Things to Do in Fes

The city is packed with history, culture, and surprises. Here are some highlights from our 48 hours:

• Jewish Quarter (Mellah): Quieter and calmer than the main medina, with pretty pastel walls. Locals tried to convince us “there’s nothing to see,” but we were glad we trusted our instincts and explored.
• Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen): An impressive set of golden gates covered in gorgeous, colourful tiles. Again, don’t be put off by opportunistic locals pretending the Royal Palace is closed, trying to lure you into their shop or restaurant.
• Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate): Built in 1913, this ornate gate is one of Fes’ most photographed spots. The blue side represents the city’s famous ceramics, while the green side symbolizes Islam.

On our first evening, we walked up to the Tombs Of Merinids. A steep climb rewards you with panoramic views over the city and surrounding mountains. It was a cool, local hangout with lots of families sitting on the hill, chatting, laughing and enjoying the sunset.

There were some tourist attractions we didn’t visit during our stay, like University of Al Quaraouiyine. Non-Muslims can’t enter the mosques, but you can peek through the doors at this ancient university, considered the world’s oldest.

We skipped the Tanneries (the smell and pressure to buy put us off), but they’re one of Fes’ most famous sights if you’re curious. I’ve heard reports of tourists being pressurized into buying expensive leather goods, so you might prefer to visit the tanneries as part of an organised tour.

What to Eat in Fes

Fes has a delicious food scene ranging from family-run cafés to leafy garden hideaways. Here’s where we ate:

• The Ruined Garden: Our favourite find! A peaceful courtyard café serving creative twists on Moroccan flavours. The chocolate espresso mousse spiced with Ras El Hanout and the orange blossom milk with dates were unforgettable. Book in advance for dinner.
• Café Clock: A well-known spot popular with expats. We had falafel, hummus, and a vegetarian pastilla. The live music charge made it one of our priciest meals (200 MAD / €20), but it was a fun evening.
• Yalla Yalla: Near the Blue Gate, serving affordable Moroccan staples like meatballs with couscous. Casual, tasty, and cheaper than Café Clock.
• Chez Rachid: Budget-friendly meal deal (70 MAD / €7) with soup or salad, a main, and dessert. We tried chicken skewers and lamb tagine. Simple but filling.