If you’re planning your first trip to Morocco, you’ve probably heard all about the buzzing souks of Marrakech, the vast Sahara Desert, and the winding blue streets of Chefchaouen. But fewer travellers know about Essaouira – a relaxed, seaside town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that feels like a completely different world from the country’s bigger cities.

Known as “The Wind City of Africa”, Essaouira (pronounced Essa-weera) is a place where whitewashed buildings meet colourful doors, where fishing boats bob in the harbour, and where the call of seagulls replaces the blaring horns of Marrakech traffic. The pace here is slower, the streets less chaotic, and the sea breeze gives the whole town an easy, refreshing atmosphere.

During our self-guided tour of Morocco, my husband and I added Essaouira to our itinerary for a short but much-needed breather. After a few days in the bustling, frenetic chaos of Marrakech, this laid-back seaside town offered the perfect respite. We only had two days here, but it was exactly what we needed to recharge and experience a completely different side of the country. In this post, I will share what to see and do in Essaouira, where to stay, the best time to visit and what makes this coastal town so captivating.

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How to Get to Essaouira

Essaouira is 185km west of Marrakech (or 175km north of Agadir). Here is a breakdown on how to reach Essaouira from both cities:

Getting to Essaouira from Marrakech

• By Bus: Both CTM and Supratours run comfortable, air-conditioned coaches between Marrakech and Essaouira. The journey takes around 3 hours, and tickets cost about 80 MAD (£6.50 / €7.50 / $9). Buses run several times a day, and it’s best to book in advanc – especially during peak travel months. Once you arrive, it’s about a 20-minute walk from the bus station to the Medina.
• You can purchase bus tickets online through the companies’ official websites or in-person at their terminals. To avoid any potential language barriers, I recommend booking via 12goasia. I use 12goasia whenever possible as the website is really easy to use, you can compare prices and schedules, pay online and download your bus ticket as an e-ticket. 
• By Private Driver or Taxi: A private transfer offers more flexibility and convenience, especially if you’re traveling in a group or carrying lots of luggage. Expect to pay between 700–1,000 MAD (£60–80 / €65–95 / $75–110) for the 2.5–3 hour trip. The main advantage is being able to leave at your own time and stop along the way (for photos, snacks, or coffee breaks). For ease, you can also book a private taxi ride via 12goasia.

Getting to Essaouira from Agadir

• By Bus: CTM and Supratours operate modern, comfortable buses between Agadir and Essaouira. The journey takes around 3.5–4 hours, with ticket prices averaging 90–120 MAD (£7–10 / €8.50–11 / $10–13). Seats can be booked online in advance at 12goasia, at the bus companies’ websites or at the bus station.
• By Private Driver or Taxi: Prices typically range from 600–900 MAD (£50–75 / €55–85 / $65–100), depending on your haggling skills and the size of your group. The drive takes around 3 hours, with the bonus of being able to stop at coastal viewpoints or small towns along the way.

Where to Stay

Essaouira offers plenty of riads, guesthouses, and boutique hotels, many tucked inside the atmospheric Medina. Staying within the Old Town means you’ll be steps away from the markets, port, and restaurants. If you’d prefer more peace and a sea view, there are hotels and resorts closer to the beach.

Here are some well-rated riads and hotels, suitable for different budgets:

• Dar El Pacha Hostel ($) – This colourful, sociable spot in the Medina is ideal if you’re seeking a lively backpacker vibe. 
• Riad Baladin ($$) – A stylish riad with bright, airy rooms and a rooftop terrace where you can enjoy sweeping sunset views over the city. 
• Heure Bleue Palais Relais & Châteaux ($$$) – This gorgeous hotel blends Moroccan design with five-star indulgence. Expect an elegant spa, rooftop pool, and sophisticated suites that make it one of Essaouira’s most iconic hotels. 

What to See and Do in Essaouira

Essaouira cast a good impression on us immediately; it’s a popular spot for locals, tourists and windsurfers alike, with its vibrant, colourful buildings, picturesque port area and 6km sandy beach. These are the highlights you won’t want to miss in Essaouira:

Explore the Ramparts

One of our favourite experiences was wandering along the Essaouira ramparts. From here, you can gaze out over the Atlantic, the fishing port, and the crashing waves below. The cobbled walkways and row of old cannons add a real sense of history, and we lost track of time watching the waves crashing against nearby rocks.

Wander the Medina

Essaouira’s UNESCO-listed Medina is compact and easy to navigate, with just two main streets –Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah and Avenue Mohamed Zerktouni. The stalls are fun to browse, with jewellery, crockery, spices, handicrafts, and accessories all on display.

We particularly enjoyed the Kasbah area, known for its artistic flair – think colourful fabrics, tiles, paintings, and ceramics. And unlike in Marrakech, many shops had fixed, advertised prices – making shopping much less stressful.

Visit the Citadel and Fish Port

Follow the seagulls and you’ll soon arrive at Essaouira’s fishing port. It’s a lively, chaotic spot with fishermen, boats, nets, and market stalls – and yes, the unmistakable stench of fish. I’ve visited many fish markets before and have lived by the sea before, but this was without doubt the stinkiest, most overwhelming fish market I’ve ever encountered! The port is fun for people-watching and photography but after a few minutes, I had to head back to the main road for some fresh air.

Try the Local Cuisine

Essaouira has no shortage of restaurants and cafés serving Moroccan dishes, seafood, and international cuisine. But our most memorable meal came from the fish market itself.

We arrived at dinnertime and were shown a spread of freshly caught fish by a waiter who showed us a wide selection of freshly-caught goodies on offer that evening. My husband and I are normally very hesitant about ordering fish by the kilo, as we know that’s one of the main ways tourists are ripped off while dining out. However this waiter was genuinely honest and helpful. We explained how much we wanted to spend; he showed us how much fish that would get us. We asked him to include a bit more and he updated us on the price.

Once agreed, the fish was whisked away to be cooked and we were seated, with bread, salad and a soft drink on the house. The meal was delicious; some parts were grilled and others fried. Salt, pepper and some slices of fresh lemon were all the fish needed to shine.

For those who enjoy finishing a meal with something sweet, Essaouira is also home to some fantastic patisseries, with delicate sweets made from filo pastry, honey, walnuts, pistachios, figs, and dates. We’d particularly recommend Pâtisserie La Bienvenue and Pâtisserie Chez Driss if you’re in need of a sugar fix.

Do a Moroccan Food Tour

A Chef’s Tour runs two different food tours in Essaouira – Spice Shores and Souk Stories – and together they give you a truly rounded taste of the city’s Atlantic-rooted cuisine. Rather than covering the same ground, the tours complement each other, revealing different layers of Essaouira’s culinary identity as you move between the port, the medina, and the seafront.

With more than 15 tastings, the tours showcase Essaouira exactly as locals eat it, from briny sea urchin and sea conch by the harbour to citrusy shrimp ceviches, smoky grilled fish, and comforting bowls of harira tucked inside the souk. There are flaky msemmen flatbreads, shrimp cooked with preserved lemon and spices, herb-infused snail broth, and calamari stewed in tomato, before finishing with classic Moroccan pastries and sweet mint tea. You will have the chance to try authentic street food and home-style cooking found in family-run stalls and markets. I’ve done several tours with A Chef’s Tour, and I’m always impressed by the variety of dishes, the knowledge the guides share, and how pleasantly full I feel by the end.

Outdoor Activities

If you have more time, there’s no shortage of things to do beyond strolling, eating, and shopping. Popular activities include:

• Horse riding or camel riding along the beach
• Cooking classes (perfect for learning Moroccan recipes)
• Sailing tours
• Quad biking through the surrounding landscapes
• Surfing, kitesurfing, and windsurfing