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Getting Around Marrakech

Visually, Marrakech is undeniably gorgeous. I loved wandering around the photogenic Medina (Old Town), a UNESCO World Heritage site full of shadowy side alleys, sweeping archways and bustling markets. The Old Town is chaotic and confusing. It feels like sensory overload from the noise, the chatter, the motorbikes streaking past, snaking their way through the crowds, from the heat, the smell of grilled meat and yesterday’s unsold produce starting to rot, from exhaust fumes and cigarette smoke. You will get lost in the Old Town – it’s simply unavoidable! Download an offline version of a map, such as Google Maps or maps.me, but be prepared for some glitches, leading you to dead-ends!

To stop ourselves from getting completely lost, my husband and I tried to fix little markers in our minds – a tiled fountain here, a shopfront there, maybe an archway or a splash of graffiti. Sometimes our “landmarks” were less charming, like an overflowing rubbish bin, but they did the job. Once the sun set, though, it was a different story: everything looked unfamiliar, and we soon found ourselves going in circles. The best approach is not to stress about it – wandering the Medina’s labyrinth is part of the experience, so let your curiosity guide you. If you do ask for directions, be aware that locals will usually expect a tip in return. Keeping a few small coins handy (100–200 dirhams, about €1–2) will save you any awkwardness.

Despite being a popular, well-visited city, Marrakech has maintained a lot of its charm. We saw lots of locals living, working, shopping and running errands alongside the hordes of visitors. Morocco is an Islamic country, where you see women and girls wearing burqas and hijabs. However, just outside of Marrakech’s Medina, you can find ‘New Marrakech’, a district featuring shops like Zara & H&M, full of teenage Moroccans wearing crop and mini-skirts. It’s an intriguing and jarring juxtaposition! In case you are wondering, tourists should dress conservatively, with women covering their shoulders, knees and chest, but it isn’t necessary to wear a head scarf or full covering.

Where to Stay in Marrakech

Marrakech has accommodation options to suit all budgets, from basic guest houses to 5* hotels. I suggest you stay in a riad, a traditional guest house which has been converted from family homes. Riads have a central courtyard area (often with a small swimming pool or fountain), with rooms facing onto the courtyard. There is usually an open or glass roof so natural light filters all the way down. Riads can be very striking and photogenic, offering a cool, calm sanctuary from the hustle & bustle of the city.

We stayed in two riads – Riad Safir Marrakech and Casa del Sol Marrakech – during our time in Marrakech (with our exciting Sahara tour in-between!) and were really impressed by both places. The architecture was truly gorgeous, with colourful tiles and intricate designs everywhere. Despite being very centrally located, we slept well. Every morning we happily skipped downstairs to enjoy a delicious breakfast, included in the price of the room. We had double rooms with en-suite bathrooms in both riads and thought the prices were incredibly reasonable.

I suggest choosing a riad close to the Medina’s main gates. It’ll be easier to navigate yourself and you’ll be closer to the taxi rank if you want to travel anywhere else (no taxis or cars can enter the Medina). As with other places in the Old Town, some hotels and hostels are not clearly signposted. Some buildings don’t have street numbers or signs displaying their name, which makes navigating very tricky!

Here are some well-rated places to check out:

• Riad Dia ($) – Budget travellers will love this colourful hostel with a pool and social vibe just steps from Jemaa el-Fnaa.
• Riad Nesma Suites & Spa ($$) – A great mid-range option, offering stylish rooms, a rooftop terrace, and an on-site spa at an affordable price.
• La Mamounia ($$$) – Marrakech’s most prestigious hotel, famous for its opulent décor, lush gardens, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts and full-service spa.

What to Do and See in Marrakech

Marrakech is a city deeply enriched in Moroccan history and Arabic culture. There are many must-see landmarks and buildings in the city, such as Jemaa el-Fnaa, the largest public square in the city. It is buzzing from dawn to dusk with food vendors, musicians, street performers, dancers and snake charmers!

Marrakech has the largest traditional souk (market) in Morocco so it’s an excellent place to browse the stalls and exercise your haggling skills. Check out my blog post Haggling Tips for First-Time Visitors to Morocco for all my hints and tips. You can find everything in the souks, from leather goods to lanterns, carpets to ceramics, spices to brightly coloured, sparkling sandals and jewellery.

We visited the Kasbah Mosque, Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace, which were very impressive, but lacking in information (both in English and Arabic). I suggest you hire a guide if you really want to understand the significance and history of what you’re looking at. Nevertheless, we enjoyed wandering around, looking at the well-preserved ruins and taking photos.

We marvelled at the imposing Koutoubia Mosque, which dominates Marrakech’s skyline. It can be seen from 30km away and if you’re Muslim, you can have a look inside. We also enjoyed our visit to Maison de la Photographie – a small art gallery displaying photos of Morocco from 1870-1960. There is also a nice rooftop café with great views across the city.

Here are some things we didn’t do in Marrakech that you might want to consider:

• Do a Hot Air Balloon Ride – a very popular but pricey excursion!
• Take a Cooking Class – Learn how to make traditional, authentic Moroccan dishes which you can recreate back home!
• Have a Hamman massage – Known for its aggressive exfoliation which apparently leaves your skin feeling amazing. Some riads offer these massages on-site, or you can visit a spa or hotel for a session.
• Visit Musee de Marrakech and Jardin Majorelle – 70 MAD to enter, or 100 MAD if you also want to go to the Yves Sant-Laurent museum.

What and Where to Eat

Moroccan food is very flavourful, typically spiced with saffron, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, paprika, nutmeg, cloves and much more. You may have already tried ras el hanout, a Moroccan spice mixture made of twenty-seven spices. Dishes are usually served with cous cous or freshly baked bread. Moroccans love sweet treats: you will find cakes, pastries and biscuits flavoured with nuts, dates, figs, apricots, almonds, orange blossom and rose water.

Morocco’s most well-known dish is tagine. It is a stew of slow-cooked vegetables, olives, lemon, garlic and spices, cooked in a triangular clay pot. We mostly had chicken or lamb tagine but you can find beef and vegetarian varieties. Marrakech is bursting with restaurants and some of the ones we especially liked include Chez Lamine, Café des Espices and Cafe Clock.

Morocco is a Muslim country and alcohol isn’t widely consumed. Only selective bars and restaurants serve alcohol and it’s expensive. If you’re desperate, Carrefour supermarket sells it but we decided just to do without. Meals are normally accompanied by sweet mint tea, which is absolutely delicious. A word of warning: you shouldn’t drink the tap water in Morocco, so it’s best to stick to bottled water or use a water bottle with a filtration system.

Top Tips for Marrakech

Marrakech is not a dangerous city, but here are some tips to help you stay safe and trouble-free during your holiday:

• Make sure your handbag or backpack is zipped up and keep the clasp/zip close to your body. Be careful of pickpockets in the crowded souk (market) areas.
• If you photograph specific people, such as street performers, they will probably ask you for money in exchange for their photo.
• Respect and follow the local etiquette when it comes to clothing. Both men and women should cover their shoulders and knees, whilst women should also cover their cleavage. However, I should add that even if you are covered up ladies, you will be stared at. It made me feel very self-conscious, especially as many of the oglers had the subtlety of the sledgehammer. Just ignore them and avoid eye contact, even though it feels rude (but then so is leering at someone!).
• Don’t walk alone at night in quiet parts of the Medina (Old Town)
• If someone says a museum or restaurant is closed, verify that with your own eyes. Don’t let them lead you away towards a random place because it’ll probably be their own restaurant, or that of a friend.
• Research the usual taxi prices in advance, as taxi drivers are known to massively overcharge tourists. Ask your riad how much it should cost to arrive from the airport or bus station. If you can, pre-book a taxi from the airport.
• Don’t let anyone grab your hands to apply henna or slide a bracelet on. It won’t be a gift – they will expect money in return.
• Don’t take part in animal tourism. In the main square, lots of food stalls, animals like monkeys and snakes. The animals are abused and exploited so please don’t pose for photos with them (you will be charged for it and the animal will continue to suffer).
• If you get lost, ask shopkeepers for directions; they can’t leave their shops to escort you and therefore probably won’t ask for money.

I hope the above recommendations and advice have been useful. As you can tell, I am still very undecided about Marrakech. It isn’t my favourite city in Morocco, but I can recognize that it has a lot to offer tourists. Shopping lovers will enjoy bargain-hunting in the souks, whilst history buffs will lose themselves in the mosques and monuments. I enjoyed the variety and diversity of Mediterranean, North African, Berber and Islamic cultures sharing the city. The hustle and bustle – and frantic rhythm of the city – was dynamic and energizing but would become draining for longer periods of time.

If you visit Marrakech, I encourage you to combine it with other places in Morocco so you can compare and contrast. Check out my other Morocco posts – Why You Should Add Essaouira to Your Moroccan Itinerary, 48 Hours In Fes, Morocco: A First-Time Visitor’s Guide and Morocco Packing List: What To Pack & Wear In Morocco – to help you plan your trip!

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow