Nestled in the heart of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Modena is a charming city for lovers of Italian history, culture and architecture. It is also the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and is known for its production of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. The city is compact and walkable, making it an easy day trip from nearby cities such as Bologna and Parma. In this post, we’ll delve into the must-see attractions and experiences that make Modena a true gem waiting to be explored.
Planning a trip to the Emilia-Romagna region? Check out my itinerary here!
Getting there
From Bologna: Take the train REG or RV train from Bologna Centrale. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs around €4.30 each way. You can also take the IC train, but it’s only slightly quicker and is more expensive.
From Parma: Regional trains run every 30 minutes from Parma to Modena. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs around €6 each way. There are also hourly Frecciarossa trains, which cost €19-22 each way and are only slightly quicker.
Travelling to Modena from another city? Check the train times and prices on Trenitalia.
Morning
Take an early morning train to Modena to make the most of the day. Upon arrival in Modena, immediately jump into a taxi at the station to take you to 4 Madonne Caseificio dell’Emilia. It’s an award-winning dairy farm less than 15 minutes’ drive outside of Modena. A taxi ride will cost less than €20 each way. Don’t worry, you’ll have time to explore Modena’s historic centre later!
Our tour at 4 Madonne Caseificio was one of the highlights of our Emilia-Romagna trip. The tour costs €15 per adult (discounts available for children) and lasts an hour. Tours are available in English & Italian, and reservations must be made in advance. Your guide will explain the farm’s history and production process, while you watch the staff at work and ogle the 33,000 Parmigiano Reggiano wheels in their warehouse (certainly the best-smelling warehouse I’ve ever been in!). Perhaps you’re wondering what’s the difference is between Parmigiano-Reggiano and the standard parmesan available in supermarkets? It’s all about the ageing process: Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged between one to three years, which gives it a really strong, defined flavour and dense texture. It’s highly regulated; only cheese produced in Emilia-Romagna under strict conditions can be labelled Parmigiano-Reggiano. On the other hand, parmesan is unregulated and could be aged for as little as 10 months. When it comes to flavour, there’s really no comparison!
After the tour, you can sample different ages of Parmigiano Reggiano, along with ricotta and butter made exclusively by milk from their dairy cows. When you’ve finished the tasting, visit their well-stocked shop full of 4 Madonne Caseificio goodies and other typical regional products from local suppliers. When you’re ready, the receptionist will call a taxi to take you back to Modena city centre.
If cheese isn’t your thing, you could visit Enzo Ferrari Museum by Modena train station, dedicated to the life and work of the legendary Italian car manufacturer, who was born in the Modena province. Admire the iconic cars on display, whilst learning about the history of Ferrari. Fans of luxury sports cars will also enjoy the Musée automobile PANINI, a free museum 20 minutes’ drive south of Modena. Here you can find a large private collection of Maserati cars, Lamborghini tractors and rare vintage cars. The museum is located inside a farmhouse, where you can visit their dairy farm and pet farm animals.
Once back in Modena, it’s time to explore Piazza Grande, the central focal point of Modena. Here you can find the city’s most recognizable landmark, the Ghirlandina Tower. The tower is 282 ft / 86 m tall and if you climb 200 steps up the bell tower, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over the city. The climb can be a bit challenging, but the breathtaking views make it worth it (Entrance €3 per person).
The bell tower is attached to Duomo di Modena (Modena Cathedral), a stunning example of Romanesque architecture. Take some time to admire the beautiful sculptures on its façade. Inside you can find wonderful mosaics, crypts, altars and fresco paintings. There is also a museum – Musei del Duomo – which displays sculptures and artefacts, dating from Romanesque times until the 19th century. Close to the cathedral is Palazzo Comunale (Modena’s town hall) which contains statues, paintings, frescoes, including a fantastic statue of Perseus holding the head of Medusa (the one with a head of snakes!).
Afternoon
For lunch, visit Mercato Storico Albinelli, a market which has been around since the 1900s. It is full of food stalls serving up tempting Modenese cuisine. Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to try balsamic vinegar, the prized condiment that has made Modena world famous. Balsamic vinegar is made from grapes, which are aged in wooden barrels for several years. Giuseppe Giusti Boutique Modène is a fantastic place to sample and buy different types of balsamico. I was blown away by how complex the flavour was and how it varied depending on the ageing process. We also tried some glazes and reductions used in Italian recipes. Giusti also has an acetaia (vinegar cellar) outside of Modena, which has been in operation since 1605. You can do a tour there, learn about their production process and sample more of their exquisite balsamic vinegar.
Once you’ve had your fill of balsamic vinegar, it’s time for more sightseeing! If you’re an art lover, head to Palazzo dei Musei, which houses several museums, including Museo Civico di Modena, Museo del Duomo and the Estense Gallery. Here you can find a wide variety of paintings, drawings, inscriptions, glass artwork, porcelain, manuscripts and books dating back hundreds of years. Alternatively you could pre-book a tour of Palazzo Ducale, the former residence of the Estes (the dukes of Modena from the mid 1400s to the mid 1800s) which is now a military academy. Modena also has some historic churches which are worth visiting, including San Vincenzo and Santa Maria della Pomposa (the oldest church in town, dating back to 1135).
While sightseeing, take some time to stroll through the streets of Modena, with its charming buildings painted in shades of yellow, orange and red. If you’re lucky, there might be a concert or festival happening while you’re there. The city has a prominent arts and culture scene, with a special connection to opera. Luciano Pavarotti was born in Modena, and fans can visit Casa Museo Luciano Pavarotti, his childhood home which has now been converted into a museum. It’s less than 20 minutes’ drive from Modena city centre and admission costs €10,00 including a self-guided audio tour (Concessions available).
If you’d like to grab a bite to eat before leaving Modena, there are lots of trattorias and family-run restaurants for an informal, tasty dinner. For something extra special, try to get a reservatio at Osteria Francescana, voted the best restaurant in the world more than once! As the sun begins to set, it’s time to walk back to the train station, reflecting on everything you have seen, tasted and experienced during your day in Modena.
Need internet/data during your visit? Get yourself an E-Sim card which will cover you throughout Europe (everywhere except Monaco!). These Klook E-SIM cards are really convenient, reliable and easy to set up so you can surf the net, make online bookings and navigate Google maps without issues. Klook have SIM cards for 7, 10, 14 and 30 days – perfect for long and short trips!
Ciao for now
Izzie, the Curious Sparrow
