Exploring Pompeii feels like stepping 2000 years into the past. Its remarkable ruins capture the essence of daily life in ancient Rome, offering visitors a rare chance to explore a city frozen in time, preserved in astonishing detail by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
Located just 23km from Naples, Pompeii is one of the world’s best-preserved archaeological sites and one of Italy’s most famous attractions. Years of painstaking renovations and excavations have brought this UNESCO-listed city back to life, giving visitors a real sense of what it was like some 2,000 years ago. You can wander through its preserved streets, explore theatres, public bathhouses, and villas, and even pop into the ruins of ancient homes and shops. There are also incredible mosaics and frescoes to admire that tell tales of the past.
I’ve visited many historic archaeological sites around the world, but Pompeii easily stands out as one of the most impressive. This isn’t just because of the scale and preservation of the site, but also the stories behind it.
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What Is Pompeii? A Brief History of the Ancient City
Pompeii was once a bustling city, home to an estimated 10,000-20,000 people, until everything changed in AD 79. On a fateful day – likely in August or perhaps October, as historians still debate – the mighty Mount Vesuvius erupted and brought hellfire down on the city and its inhabitants. Devastating pyroclastic flows followed, killing those not lucky enough to escape and burying the city in a thick layer of ash and volcanic matter.
Lost for nearly 1,700 years, Pompeii was accidently rediscovered in the late 16th-century, with excavations beginning in the mid-1700s. Interestingly, although large areas of the city have been unearthed since then, around a third still remains buried.
Is Pompeii Worth Visiting?
If you have any interest whatsoever in ancient Rome (and who doesn’t?), Pompeii should be high on your Italian bucket list. There are few places in the world that can transport you back in time so vividly.
Pompeii is a major tourist attraction and with that comes unavoidable crowds. However, I wouldn’t let that put you off visiting – it’s one of the most captivating archaeological sites in the world. In fact, visiting Pompeii is one of my husband’s earliest memories. That may be because he tripped over a very old, very crooked step and smashed his little face on the floor. Poor guy!
My husband Ian (right) rocking some delightful 90s fashion, in an overgrown and derelict part of Pompeii.
Planning Your Visit
Best Time to Visit and Seasonal Tips
When you visit Pompeii can make all the difference to the kind of experience you have. Late spring (March–May) and early autumn (September–October) are often considered the sweet spots: warm but not overwhelming, with lighter crowds that let you wander the streets at your own pace.
I’d avoid travelling in the summer (June-August), which can be extremely crowded and brutally hot, with temperatures soaring above 30°C and little shade among the ruins. Winter, on the other hand, is a good option if you want fewer crowds and cheaper tickets, though you’ll need to be prepared for cold, rainy weather. Some nearby restaurants, cafés, or tour options may reduce hours or close during the off-season, so planning ahead is essential.
Pompeii Ticket Prices & Skip-the-Line Options
Pompeii, like many attractions in Italy, has several tickets available to make things confusing for visitors. Here are the ticket options at the time of writing, but double check the official website before your visit, in case anything has changed:
- Pompeii Plus / €25: This ticket is valid for the ancient city of Pompeii and suburban villas: Villa dei Misteri, Villa di Diomede, and Villa Regina in Boscoreale with Antiquarium (I recommend buying this ticket)
- Pompeii Express / €20: This is valid for only the ancient city of Pompeii (excludes the suburban villas).
- Grande Pompeii / €30: This extensive ticket is valid for 3 days, giving you entry to each site (Pompeii Plus + Oplontis + Villa Arianna + Villa San Marco + Museo Libero D’Orsi) as well as the use of the free shuttle bus.
- Free entry: Entry to Pompeii is free of charge on every first Sunday of the month as part of Italy’s excellent nationwide “Domenica al Museo” initiative. Expect large crowds and long queues if you go on one of these Sundays.
Whichever you decide on, you should book in advance through the official Pompeii site as there is now a daily limit of 20,000 admissions. This website will also have the current opening hours and any restricted access (some areas are occasionally closed for conservation or events). When you book your ticket, you will need to choose one of two timeslots.
- Morning Slot – 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM
- Afternoon Slot – 1:00 PM to 5:30 PM.
If you’re visiting from Rome or Naples, aim for an early morning entry – you’ll enjoy cooler temperatures, fewer crowds, and much better photos.
How Much Time Do You Need at Pompeii?
Due to the sheer size of Pompeii and all the fascinating things to see there, you should be prepared to spend at least 4 hours there. Even then, it’s doubtful you will see everything the archaeological site contains. On my last visit, Ian and I spent five hours there and didn’t manage to see everything.
Top Things to See in Pompeii: Must-Visit Highlights
As Pompeii is so enormous, it’s a good idea to have a plan of specific things you want to see and prioritise what interests you most. Below are some ideas of what I think are must-visit sites:
Foro di Pompei (Pompeii Forum)
Pompeii, like most Roman cities, had a sprawling public forum that was the bustling heart of the city’s political, commercial, and social life. Thousands of years ago it would have been buzzing with merchants, senators, lawyers, and shopkeepers going about their daily business.
Here you can find the ruins of historic temples like the Santuario di Apollo and the Temple of Jupiter, as well as the remains of the Basilica of Pompeii, statues, municipal buildings, and a granary. You also get some dramatic views of Mount Vesuvius in the distance.
Although the Forum attracts a lot of tourists, in some ways it helps you imagine what life would have been like back then. The hustle and bustle makes the ruins feel more alive… as long as you can ignore the tour groups and selfie sticks.
Pompeii Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro di Pompei)
No ancient Roman city was worth its salt without an imposing amphitheatre, where its citizens could freely embrace their blood lust. While not as famous as the mighty Colosseum in Rome, the Pompeii Amphitheatre is in fact the oldest surviving example of its kind.
Dating to 70 BC, the Pompeii amphitheatre held gladiatorial games, wild animal hunts, and other events to the delight of 20,000 bloodthirsty spectators. The arena still hosts events to this day, but they are fortunately much less violent than in the past.
Teatro Grande (Grand Theatre)
Built in the 2nd century BC, Teatro Grande could hold 5,000 spectators in its glory day, who came to watch plays, comedy shows, and of course, gladiator fights. Today, visitors can walk around its corridors and rest in the tiered seating area. Climb to the highest tiers of this large arena to enjoy sweeping views of the beautiful surroundings.
The smaller Odeon (Teatrum Tectum), which was mainly used for music and poetry performances, sits adjacent to the Grand Theatre. Like the Pompeii amphitheatre, Teatro Grande also hosts live music and artistic performances.
Everyday Life in Pompeii: Shops & Workshops
The archaeological park is home to the ruins of many mighty structures and government buildings, but one side of Pompeii that I find equally fascinating are the remains of small businesses. These spots help you imagine the day-to-day activities of Pompeii’s citizens, and makes their sudden, unexpected demise all the more tragic.
Scattered around the city are the relics of simple shops like laundrettes, fresco-covered thermopolia (fast food stalls), and even a bakery (Casa del Forno) where you can still see the ovens that were used to bake bread some 2,000 years ago. You’ll spot a few public toilets too, though it’s not nice to imagine what these were like back then…
Villa dei Misteri (Villa of the Mysteries)
Just outside the city walls in the outskirts of Pompeii sits Villa dei Misteri (Villa of the Mysteries), a restored 90-room luxurious residence. The building itself is hugely impressive, and one of the best preserved structures in Pompeii, but it is the richly decorated interior that makes it so special.
Inside you’ll find stunning frescoes painted on its ancient walls, with the most famous and spectacular being the Dionysiac frieze in Room 5. This ruby-red fresco, believed to depict the initiation of a bride into a Dionysian cult, is one of the highlights of Pompeii.
I recommend finishing your visit at Villa dei Misteri and leaving from the nearby exit, rather than heading back to the main entrance area. To enter the villa, you’ll need a Pompeii Plus ticket (or pay extra for a separate ticket) – in my view, it’s absolutely worth it.
Terme Stabiane (Stabian Baths)
The ancient Romans loved visiting thermae (thermal bathhouses) to relax and unwind, and Pompeii had its fair share of these facilities. The oldest and largest is the remarkably intact Terme Stabiane, a giant complex dating to the 2nd century BC. Inside you’ll be able to explore its atmospheric corridors and step into rooms like the frigidarium (cold room) and caldarium (hot room). There is also a pleasant open-air courtyard that was once used as a gym.
Terme Suburbane near the main entrance is also well worth a visit. Though not as well preserved as Terme Stabiane, it does have some notable frescoes to admire, some of which are surprisingly risqué.
Antiquarium of Pompeii Museum
Reopened in 2021 after being closed for more than 35 years, this archaeological museum by the main entrance houses many of Pompeii’s treasures. Visitors can browse the permanent exhibition that showcases frescoes, sculptures, and other interesting finds.
It’s also here that you’ll encounter some of Pompeii’s most famous sights – the so‑called “preserved bodies.” Many visitors mistake them for mummies, like those of ancient Egypt, but they are actually plaster casts created in the late 19th century. Archaeologists poured plaster into the hollow voids left behind when victims’ bodies decomposed in the volcanic ash, capturing their forms in haunting detail. Though unsettling, these casts are fascinating, perfectly preserving the shapes and postures of Pompeii’s inhabitants in their final moments.
Casa del Fauno (House of the Faun)
Casa del Fauno is one of the largest and most luxurious residences in all of Pompeii. Covering some 3,000 square meters, it gives a real sense of how the other half lived. Inside, you’ll find elegant courtyards, lush gardens, patios, grand atriums, and wonderfully preserved mosaics.
It is best known though for the replicas of a bronze statue of a dancing faun (of which the site gets its name) and the famous floor mosaic depicting Alexandra the Great in battle. The originals of both are in the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, which is a must-visit if you have the time.
Lupanare (Ancient Brothel)
If you want to get an idea of the decadence and debauchery that ancient Romans were known for, make your way to Lupanare di Pompeii – the city’s brothel. Inside, you’ll find small rooms with stone beds that were used for you-know-what, walls covered in saucy graffiti, and vivid frescoes that reveal the sexual attitudes and behaviours of the time. I challenge you not to giggle as you wander around!
You are also likely to notice several phallic symbols carved into stones while strolling Pompeii’s streets. These are believed to have been an early form of advertising that guided pleasure-seeking Pompeians and out-of-towners to the city’s brothels. The ancient Romans were a cheeky bunch, weren’t they?
Casa dei Vettii (House of the Vettii)
Officially reopened to the public in 2023, Casa dei Vettii is one of the best preserved houses in Pompeii, and a wonderful example of ancient Roman architecture. Like other dwellings of wealthy Pompeians, Casa dei Vettii is elaborately decorated with a large collection of intricate and exceptionally-preserved wall paintings to admire.
Many of the frescoes depict mythological scenes, as well as those of an erotic nature (this seems to be a running theme in amorous Pompeii). The most well-known erotic fresco is of a gentleman with what appears to be a highly exaggerated member. Of course, things could have been different back then…
There is also a stunning atrium and lush garden to enjoy, as well as numerous rooms to explore. A visit here really paints a picture of what the social gatherings of the rich and powerful would have been like. It can get crowded, so you may have to queue. It’s definitely worth it though.
Suggested Pompeii Itineraries
To help you make the most of your visit, I’ve put together two flexible itineraries. Whether you only have a few hours or a full day to explore, these routes highlight the city’s most iconic landmarks:
- Half-Day Itinerary (3-4 Hours): Focus on Pompeii’s highlights, including the Forum, House of the Faun, and the Lupanar of Pompeii – perfect if you’re short on time but still want a strong overview of the ancient city.
- Full-Day Itinerary (6-8 Hours): Take a deeper dive by adding the Villa of the Mysteries, Teatro Grande, and Stabian Baths, with time to explore quieter streets and lesser-known houses at a relaxed pace.
Pompeii Guided Tours vs Self-Guided Visits
Visiting Pompeii independently is the most popular choice for many visitors. It is straightforward to get to by train from either Naples or Rome, and the archaeological park is well marked with maps, points of interests, and plenty of information boards.
I recommend getting an audio guide if you visit independently to get a bit more information. There are several of these available on app stores, such as the free Rick Steves audio guide which we used. These give relatively short bursts of information, but are a good companion to the info boards.
I also highly recommend watching a documentary beforehand to fully appreciate what happened there. There are lots of great ones on Youtube – just don’t watch the 2014 Kit Harington movie Pompeii, which has scathing reviews!
Popular Pompeii Guided Tours & What They Include
If you are a real history buff, or just want to make things easier for yourself, then a guided tour is the way to go. This Pompeii guided tour involves being taken around the park by an actual archaeologist who will tell you stories of Pompeii’s history, show key points of interest that others may miss, and allow you to ask any question that may arise.
Alternatively, this Small Group Tour with an Archaeologist is very flexible and customisable, offering choices such as private tours, group experiences, and guided visits to different areas of the Pompeii site.
If you are really pressed for time during your stay in Italy and want to squeeze in as much as you can, consider a big multi-destination tour, such as this Pompeii, Amalfi Coast, and Sorrento day trip from Rome.
What to Pack for Visiting Pompeii
- Sun protection: The intense sun in southern Italy is no joke, and Pompeii has very little shade to protect you. As such, it’s important that you bring a hat, sunscreen, and maybe a fan if you are susceptible to heat.
- Sensible footwear: Pompeii’s cobblestone streets may look pretty, but they can be a bit of hazard at times due their uneven surfaces. Comfortable shoes are a must – no high heels!
- Reusable water bottle: There are several drinking fountains on site, so be sure to bring a reusable bottle so you stay nice and hydrated. You can also buy water on site.
Food at Pompeii: Where to Eat
There are several places to eat around the train station, but these are often busy, and unsurprisingly overpriced. There is also a small cafe on the grounds of the park with a decent selection and surprisingly reasonable prices.
We decided to bring our own lunch the last time we were there, to avoid wasting time queuing for food. We wish we had brought some snacks though as we started getting really peckish towards the end of our visit – sightseeing is hungry work!
How to Get to Pompeii: Transport Options
Getting to Pompeii from Naples
The most convenient way to get to Pompeii from Naples is by train. There are two main options for this:
Circumvesuviana (Naples-Sorrento Line)
This option is the most popular, frequent, and cost-effective option available, taking 35-40 minutes and costing around €3.
Trains depart from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi (the underground station directly below Napoli Centrale), and stop at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri, which is located directly outside the main archaeological entrance. Tickets can be purchased at the station or at the official Trenitalia website, but for convenience I suggest tapping in with your contactless card at the turnstiles. Just remember to tap out when you arrive to avoid extra charges (I learned that the hard way!)
Note – There are no seat allocations on this train and it can get really busy, so you may need to stand. The last time I did this journey, I had to stand both to and from Pompeii, nestled into another traveller’s armpit. Lovely.
Campania Express
This more tourist-oriented option is a slightly faster and more comfortable alternative to the Circumvesuviana. Equipped with air-conditioning and guaranteed seats, the Campania Express is a good option for those who don’t want to risk having to stand. Trains also depart from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi and stop at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri. Tickets cost €15 and can be purchased on the Campania Express official site or at stations.
Getting to Pompeii from Rome
From Rome Termini Station you can take a high speed to Napoli Centrale in roughly 1hr 15 minutes. Once you arrive, make your way to Piazza Garibaldi station and follow the instructions above. Ticket prices from Rome to Naples will vary depending on whether you book in advance, or on the day. They can be booked at Roma Termini or on the Trenitalia website.
Best Nearby Sites to Visit After Pompeii
Mount Vesuvius
Although you get wonderful views of Mount Vesuvius from Pompeii, some of you may want to get up close and personal with the world’s most famous volcano. You can visit Mount Vesuvius independently or as part of a tour. Keep in mind that it is an active volcano, so access may not always be possible.
This Pompeii and Vesuvius Guided Day Trip includes a hike up to 1,000 metres to admire the volcano’s crater – followed by a well‑earned lunch to celebrate your climb and a visit to Pompeii with your guide. It sounds like a full-on day, but the tour has absolutely glowing reviews.
Naples National Archaeological Museum
If you are staying in Naples then you should definitely visit the National Archaeological Museum. This massive complex houses thousands of spectacular artefacts found in Pompeii, Herculaneum, and the surrounding area, as well as collections from ancient Greek and Renaissance times.
At €20 it’s a little expensive (concessions are available), but the displays and exhibitions here are genuinely amazing. Rick Steves does an excellent free guided tour of the museum, which draws your attention to the museum’s main highlights.
Herculaneum Archaeological Park
Just 11km from Naples, Herculaneum was once a seaside retreat of the Roman elite, which was buried under volcanic ash during the same eruption of AD 79. Smaller, more compact, and far better preserved than Pompeii thanks to its distance from Mount Vesuvius, Herculaneum offers an intimate glimpse into Roman life. Incredibly, some houses still boast their original wooden roofs, doors, and balconies – even after two thousand years.
Getting there is simple – hop on the Circumvesuviana train from Naples and get off at Ercolano Scavi. While many visitors buy tickets on arrival, you can also pre‑book through the official site to check opening hours and concessions. To enhance your experience, consider joining a guided tour – well-rated options include a Herculaneum 2-Hour Private Guided Tour, Pompeii & Herculaneum with Archaeologist Guide or Herculaneum: Skip-the-Line Tour with Archaeologist.
Ostia Antica
Those of you planning to visit Rome should definitely carve out time for Ostia Antica, an ancient coastal city just half an hour away by train. Often described as Rome’s “Pompeii without the crowds,” Ostia Antica is astonishingly well preserved and offers a fascinating glimpse into everyday Roman life. You can stroll along time-worn streets lined with taverns, shops, and bathhouses, then step into grand villas decorated with intricate mosaics.
Unlike Pompeii, which was frozen in time by a sudden disaster, Ostia gradually declined and was eventually abandoned, meaning the site feels more like a city gently fading into history. Today, it’s a peaceful place to explore, with fewer tourists and plenty of space to let your imagination wander.
I hope this post has shown you that visiting Pompeii is more than just a day trip – it’s a journey into the heart of ancient Rome. Few places in the world allow you to walk so vividly in the footsteps of history, from grand public spaces to the intimate corners of everyday life. Whether you visit independently or as part of a guided tour, I am sure you’ll be amazed by what you discover there.
Planning a holiday to Naples before or after Pompeii? Check out my post Naples in 3 Days: A Perfect Itinerary for First-Time Visitors, What to Eat in Naples – 14 Must-Try Dishes You’ll Love and Ultimate Naples Travel Guide for First-Time Visitors.
Ciao for now
Izzie, the Curious Sparrow
