Palermo, the vibrant capital of Sicily, is one of the most visited cities on the island – and for good reason! Here you can find some of the best restaurants and food markets in all of Sicily, along with some of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. In this blog post, I suggest what to see, do and eat during two days in Palermo. Within two short days, you can soak up the atmosphere and gain a good understanding of the city and people who live there.

Before we get into the itinerary, let’s have a brief history lesson to help us understand why Palermo is so multicultural and diverse. The city has been invaded and ruled by many different tribes and countries throughout history thanks to its prime position in the Mediterranean sea. In fact, Palermo is said to be the most conquered city in the world! You can see influences from its previous conquerors – including Arab, Norman, Byzantine, and Spanish – throughout the city. These international influences are strongest in Palermo’s cuisine and architecture. So now we’ve got a better understanding of Palermo’s past, let’s dive into your two-day itinerary.

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Day 1 AM – Palermo Cathedral and Exploring the Historic Centre

Start your day by visiting the magnificent Palermo Cathedral. It is one of the most interesting, eye-catching and eclectic buildings I have ever seen. The cathedral’s contrasting architectural styles are fascinating; a mishmash of Norman, Arabic, Renaissance, Moorish, Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical. Details have been added and altered since the church was built in 1185. Prior to that, a basilica and a mosque once stood there, and the cathedral still has a verse from the Qur’an carved into it.

Inside the cathedral you can find the Treasury Chapel, along with the tombs of former Sicilian kings and emperors. You definitely should visit the cathedral’s viewing platform. For less than €10, you can climb a stone spiral staircase to the roof. There you can enjoy fantastic views of Palermo and the mountains surrounding it. 

Once you’ve finished exploring the cathedral, walk through a gorgeous park called Villa Bonanno. This park is full of palm trees, cacti, fountains, marble statues and exotic flowers. On the other side of the park you can find Palazzo Reale e Cappella Palatina (Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel). It is in the same complex as Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace), but the opening times for these seem random so check in advance which parts are open when. It costs €19 to enter, which is definitely on the steep side, but every visitor will agree the highlight is the Palatine chapel. It is staggeringly beautiful, with its incredible Byzantine mosaics, glittering gold decorations and stunning marble features.  

Once you’ve seen everything you want to see in the complex, stroll towards Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti (Church of Saint John of the Hermits). This 12th-century Catholic church is a UNESCO World Heritage with eye-catching red domed roofs. Following advice from Google Reviews, I didn’t enter St John’s but instead went next door to Chiesa di San Giuseppe Cafasso. It costs €3 to enter (half the price of St John’s!) which grants you access to the church and its bell tower.

You need to climb a spiral staircase to reach the bell tower, and from the top you get a brilliant aerial view of the domes, cloister and gardens of the Church of Saint John. The climb to the bell tower was very narrow and steep so the on-site staff will give you a hard hat; wear it to avoid bumping your head! I wouldn’t recommend it to people with mobility issues or vertigo, or those travelling with young children.

Day 1 PM: Mercato del Capo, Teatro Massimo and Beach Trip

Now it’s time to take a break from sightseeing and try some authentic Sicilian food. Stroll for around 20 minutes through the winding streets of Palermo until you reach Mercato del Capo. This busy, bustling street market is a sensory feast, with the tantalising scent of freshly baked bread, sizzling seafood and aromantic spices wafting between the food stalls. If you want to learn more about Sicilian street food, why not join a guided tour like this Street Food Walking Tour? On this tour a local guide leads you through Palermo’s markets, explaining the local delicacies, answering your questions and inviting you to try typical snacks such as crocchè (potato croquettes) and panelle (fried chickpea fritters).

Some of the restaurants in this area have poor reviews and seem like tourist traps, so I would eat on the go. Order some freshly squeezed orange juice, or pomegranate juice, for a couple of euros, then sink your teeth into freshly made arancini. These golden, deep-fried rice balls are synonymous with Sicilian street food, and usually stuffed with meat ragù, cheese or pistachio. Look out for sfincione, Sicily’s version of pizza (usually topped with tomatoes, onions, and caciocavallo cheese). Need something sweet at the end of your lunch? Treat yourself to a granita, a traditional shaved ice dessert. The ice is flavoured with natural ingredients such as coffee, lemon juice, or almond syrup.

Once you’ve finished your lunch, walk five minutes to Teatro Massimo. This imposing theatre was built in 1897 and has a seated capacity of 1,387. It’s the largest theatre in Italy, and the third largest in Europe. You can only enter via a guided tour (available in Italian or English) which lasts approximately 30 minutes. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to watch a performance there during your time in Palermo! 

After Teatro Massimo, you’ve got a few options. You could continue exploring the historic centre on foot, or take a taxi or rental car to Monte Pellegrino, less than 30 minutes drive north of the city centre. There are car rental services in Palermo city centre and Discover Cars is recommended for comparing prices. It’s a good idea to rent a smaller car to handle Sicily’s narrow streets and tight bends more easily, and pay for the full insurance in case of bumps and scratches.

Now back to Monte Pellegrino, which is a 606-metre high hill offering fantastic hiking trails and panoramic views across the city. Head towards the Santuario di Santa Rosalia, a peaceful, picturesque church built into the rockface, dedicated to Saint Rosalia, the patron of Palermo. Slightly further north you can find Mondello beach. You could go for a swim in the turquoise sea, or sample some fresh seafood at one of the waterfront restaurants. Look out for a local speciality; sarde a Beccafico (sardines stuffed with bread crumbs, pine nuts, currants, anchovies, garlic and parsley). When you’re ready to return to the city centre, you can jump in a taxi or walk back (approximately two hours).

If you’re back in the city centre by dinner time, choose a restaurant on Via Maqueda, one of the main streets which is full of cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. Not sure where to eat? Taverna Dei Canti is a good choice any time of day. They serve a lot of traditional Sicilian dishes, presented in a fresh, modern way. I enjoyed their stuffed pumpkin flowers, followed by the sausage ragù pasta dish.

If you want something more casual, BIGA Genio e Farina serves up pizza by the slice, with a variety of delicious toppings and flavour combinations. There are also plenty of bars on this road to enjoy a nightcap; my beverage of choice being a cold, crisp glass of Sicilian white wine.

Day 2 AM – City Walking Tour

After a leisurely start (or an early morning breakfast back at Mercato del Capo), it is time to delve deeper into Palermo’s turbulent past. I’m a big fan of walking tours as a way to learn about a new destination, via a local guide who knows the city inside and out. In Palermo you can find a lot of organised tours, but for something a little different, try the NO Mafia Walking Tour. This tour starts at 10am and lasts for three hours. Tours are available in English, Italian and French and the meeting point is in front of Teatro Massimo. 

The company which runs the tours is committed to promoting awareness and understanding of the dark history and impact of the Mafia. The Mafia may not be as powerful in Sicily as it once was, but the crime syndicate still operates today. The people of Palermo do not passively accept them, they are bravely rebelling and resisting its presence. Our guide took us through Palermo, stopping frequently to tell us stories about particular buildings or neighbourhoods and how they relate to the Mafia, their crimes and the long-lasting effect on the city. It’s incredibly brave that NO Mafia runs these tours (and its other initiatives) so I encourage you to support this company. 

Day 2 PM – Historic Foundations & Churches

After the walking tour, wander down Via Maqueda once again, stopping into any restaurant that caught your eye the night before. You can find all sorts of eateries here, from traditional trattorias to snack bars. Once you’ve filled your stomach, it’s time for more sightseeing! Walk down to the point where Via Maqueda connects with Via Vittorio Emanuele, known as Quattro Canti. This crossroad has beautiful fountains and ornate facades representing the city’s four historic districts.

Close to Quattro Canti is Fontana Pretoria, a gorgeous fountain from 1544 which features nude statues of mythological figures, such as monsters, harpies and sirens. The fountain was considered to be utterly scandalous when it was unveiled. It was nicknamed the Fountain of Shame, and apparently nuns used to come out and clothe the statues every night and government officials would remove the clothing each morning! 

In the same square as Fontana Pretoria, you can find Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. The interior of this church is really extravagant, blending Gothic and Baroque architectural style, with its magnificent altar, white marble statues, crystal chandeliers, and a colourful ceiling full of beautiful frescoes. There are different ticket options, with the full access ticket costing €10. This ticket will grant you access to the church, a fantastic viewing platform, a lovely on-site cafe with freshly-baked goods, and a peaceful courtyard with a fountain centrepiece.

Our last sightseeing spot of the day is Chiesa del Gesù di Casa Professa; my favourite church in Palermo. This church is STUNNING. It has one of the most beautiful baroque interiors I’ve ever seen. Every inch of the church, from floor to ceiling is richly decorated with paintings, stuccoes, frescoes, statues, and marble ornaments. The use of colour is dazzling. It is free to enter, but you can pay €5 for a guided tour and visit to the church’s museum.

It’s now time for your last dinner in Palermo. Join the cool young Sicilians meeting on the stretch of Via Vittorio Emanuele between Via Roma and Giardino Garibaldi. This section was really lively at night, with groups of friends sitting down for drinks and dinner together. Many restaurants offer aperitivo (you pay for an alcoholic drink in a bar or restaurant and can help yourself to their food buffet – a great low-cost dinner!). The restaurants and bars seemed more casual here than on Via Maqueda and there are some incredibly cheap eats, like the fried Sicilian street food at Nni Franco U Vastiddaru. 

If you like to end your dinner on a sweet note (like me!) look for a cafe or bakery serving freshly-made cannoli, Sicily’s most famous pastry. These crispy deep fried shells are filled with a creamy ricotta cheese mixture, flavoured with citrus zest and sprinkled with crushed nuts or chocolate chips. Heavenly! Make sure you order one to be freshly prepared in front of you; pre-filled cannoli are normally soft and soggy which just won’t do!

Where to stay in Palermo

For a short stay, choose accommodation in the historic city centre. The main streets in the centre are Via Vittorio Emanuele, Via Roma and Via Maqueda. Look for an apartment or hotel on a side street near one of these roads, so you can reach the main sites on foot while not being disturbed by the bars and restaurants. I stayed at the Demetra Rooms; a very quiet, safe hotel with a really central location.

Internet Access in Palermo

If you need reliable internet during your holiday and don’t want to rely on temperamental public Wi-FI, check out Airalo. This company offers E-SIM cards which can be used in 200 countries. My partner and I have personally used Airalo several times and find the E-SIMs to be very easy to set up and use. Airalo offers E-SIM cards for 7, 15 or 30 days, with a variety of data packages, making them perfect for long and short trips!

All too quickly, our time in Palermo has come to an end. I hope this guide has given you a better understanding of the city and what it has to offer tourists and locals alike. It might look like a very full itinerary, but fortunately the city centre is very compact and walkable, with many famous sites and historical buildings just minutes from each other. Planning how to spend your time in Sicily? 

Check out my suggested 10-day Sicily itinerary and Sicily travel guide for first-time visitors so you have everything you need for your vacation. If you have any other recommendations for Palermo, please leave them in the comments below – I’d love to hear them!

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow