Eat at Kep Crab Market

Kep is most famous for its crab, usually served stir-fried with aromatic Kampot pepper. However, this local treat has come under some criticism due to over-fishing. I’m certainly no expert, but the minuscule size of the ones being sold at the market would suggest that not all is right here. With this in mind, I decided to treat myself to only one crab meal whilst staying there. This is a bit of shame, but luckily there are more sustainable and equally delicious options available here, such as squid and snapper.

Next to the market you’ll find a row of open-air crab shacks, all serving similar menus at similar prices. While more expensive than buying directly from the market, you get nice views out for the sunset and a comfortable dining experience.

I tried the local specialty: crab with Kampot pepper. While the flavour was excellent, the crabs were disappointingly small, with very little meat. At $5 USD, it felt a bit overpriced- but still worth trying once for the experience.

Buying Fresh Seafood at the Market

On my second day, I bought seafood directly from the Kep Crab Market. There are dozens of similar grill stations offering squids on sticks, snapper, prawns and snakehead fish. If you are feeling confident, you can also join in one of the huddles of locals rummaging through crates of crabs. You pick the ones you want, agree a price, then pay one of the vendors to either boil or stir fry them for you.

I was expecting to do the whole song and dance of haggling, which I find incredibly tedious, but luckily it was quiet when I went and the woman behind the grill didn’t try to rip me off too much. No doubt I was charged more than a local, but in the end I got the price down to $2 for a whole grilled snapper, rice and sweet chili sauce.

Once my fish was reheated on the grill, I was given a little goody-bag to take away and enjoy. In the market you can take a seat at one of the many tables dotted around, but you have to buy for a drink to enjoy that privilege. Being a cheapskate I took my bag, walked a few minutes down the road and sat on a bench overlooking the sea.

Opening my polystyrene box, I was greeted with a crispy, fragant fish ready to be devoured. It was only then that I realized I didn’t have any cutlery… Oh well, I’ll just have to eat with my hands! I’ve had an affinity for eating with my hands since I visited Malaysia many years ago and ate curry with my bare hands. The grilled snapper was so tasty that a bunch of flies even tried their luck. I swiftly batted them away, eating everything except the spine and fins before the flies could get to them.

Exploring Kep’s Abandoned Villas

Besides eating crab and relaxing on the beach, another interesting activity is exploring the abandoned villas scattered around the area. During French colonial rule, Kep was a luxury resort town. In the 1950’s, Kep was a hotspot for wealthy Cambodians, royalty, and celebrities, with the area full of stylish modernist villas that played host to fancy soirées.

By the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge forced residents to flee. The villas were abandoned and left to decay. Today, many remain as atmospheric ruins. Whilst many are no longer standing, you can still find relics of a bygone era. Some even have bullet holes in the walls.

At night I can imagine the derelict villas would be a bit creepy, but during the day the only concern was bumping into aggressive stray dogs. That or treading on one of the many cowpats on the ground.

Other Things to Do in Kep

Whilst I took it easy here and didn’t see everything, Kep is well worth a visit. Whether that be in the form of a day trip from Kampot or an overnight stay, it’s a destination you will enjoy.

Kep’s beach is calm and clean, and there’s plenty to do nearby – from exploring Kep National Park and taking a boat to Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay) to touring the region’s famous Kampot pepper farms.

Practical Travel Information for Kep

Getting to Kep

The easiest way to get to Kep is via one of the many bus companies. We used 12Go to travel all around Cambodia. Their website is really easy-to-use, you can find all the information you need about routes, prices and timetables, pay through the website by credit or debit card, and download e-tickets straight to your smartphone.

Where to Stay in Kep

Most travellers base themselves near the crab market or along the main beachfront, where you’ll find a mix of boutique resorts, simple bungalows, and guesthouses surrounded by greenery. Staying close to the crab market gives you easy access to seafood restaurants and sunset views, while the quieter hillside accommodation offer a more secluded feel.

I stayed at the Khmer House Hostel which cost around $9 a night for a private double room with en-suite and fan. The hostel offers a free breakfast, bike rentals, and has a restaurant on the premises. It is an easy 15 minute walk to the crab market and 25 minutes to the beach. It was a decent hostel, with the main issue being the poor quality internet. I did feel $9 was a bit expensive for what I got though.

Where to Eat in Kep

• Crab Market – Probably the main reason people visit Kep, the market is a seafood-lovers haven that offers an array of choices.
• Srea Seafood Restaurant – Another crab shack near the market, this was where I had my crab dish with Kampot peppers. Aside from the slight lack of meat, it was very tasty. I opted for the small dish which cost $5, with large dishes costing $7.50.
• Kep Sur Mer – This restaurant is owned by the hostel I stayed at, which offers you a free tuk-tuk ride there. Being right at the crab market, prices are on the higher side, though the menu is extensive and the Happy Hour is decent. I tried the fried squid with Kampot pepper sauce, but it was a mixed experience – some pieces were tender while others were tough and rubbery. To be fair, I only sampled that one dish.

If you have any questions about Kep, please leave them in the comments.

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow