Discovering Kampot: Cambodia’s Hidden Riverside Escape

Kampot is a relaxed riverside town in southern Cambodia, known for its colonial architecture, world-famous pepper plantations, and easygoing backpacker vibe. Sitting on the Praek Tuek Chhu River, it’s a perfect stop for travellers who want to slow down, enjoy good food, and recharge during a Cambodian itinerary.

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The easiest way to reach Kampot is by bus or minivan, with car travel also an option for flexibility.

Travellers coming from Phnom Penh can take a bus or minivan for around 3-4 hours at $8-11 USD, with multiple daily departures; driving by car takes about 2-2.5 hours along National Highway 3.

From Sihanoukville, Kampot is only about 2 hours away, making minivans and taxis popular choices for quick transfers. Journeys from Siem Reap or Battambang are longer – typically 8–10 hours by bus or minivan, often requiring a transfer in Phnom Penh. Car rentals or private taxis are available from all cities, offering more comfort and direct routes, though at higher costs.

Tickets can be booked easily online through platforms like 12Go and Camboticket, and minivans are generally faster but less spacious than buses. Overall, Kampot is well connected, and choosing between bus, minivan, or car depends on your budget, time, and comfort preferences.


Guest post by my husband Ian

With my first encounter of the south of Cambodia a bit of a bust (I’m looking at you Sihanoukville), I knew it was time to move on. My options were to either head to the islands of Koh Rong or remain inland and move towards Kampot. Both destinations appealed for different reasons, but as I was on my own, I felt a romantic island paradise would be kind of lost on me, so Kampot it was.

Travelling from Sihanoukville to Kampot looked like a relatively pain-free experience: a 3-hour journey departing at 10.30am with the Champa Mekong Bus company. However, on the day, the scheduled departure time came and went and there was no sign of the bus. Myself and the few tourists who were taking the same route began to get a bit fidgety, and were relieved to learn that the departure point was actually about 50m down the road.

We hurried down the road and took our seats in the waiting area after showing our tickets to the surly lady behind the desk. Another hour went by and the bus finally showed up. By now, the number of passengers had increased from the 4 of us to probably around 20. We soon realized that the bus was far too small to fit us all in. I managed to get my bag in the luggage compartment and took one of the few seats remaining.

With only one more available and about 5 people queuing outside, I was intrigued as to what would happen. Would they get another bus? Would they make them sit on the floor? Nope, they instead made up that some websites take fake bookings that the company cannot honour. In reality, I’m pretty certain the company just overbooked without paying attention. Needless to say, there were a fair few angry faces by the time we finally left the station.

After a fairly straight-forward journey, we arrived. Even before disembarking the bus we were swarmed with tuk-tuk drivers tapping on the windows, trying to grab anyone they could. With a bit of makeup and prosthetics, it would not look out of place in the Walking Dead. Unfortunately for the walkers, I had been sitting on my arse for a few hours so decided to go to my hostel on foot.

Kampot
The drop-off point in Kampot

Reverting back to my 20-year old self, I decided to stay at a more lively hostel. It was getting towards Christmas and whilst I don’t overly care about the holiday, it seemed right to be around people. After my 20-minute walk in the sun, large backpack on the back, smaller pack on the front, looking like some kind of sweaty turtle, I arrived at the Karma Traders Hostel just outside of town. Dropping my luggage in the shabby dorm room, I went outside, sat by the poolside bar and began taking advantage of Happy Hour ($0.75 a beer).

After chatting to the Aussie barman, I found out it was the pub quiz night and the questions would be Christmas themed. On my team was a lively (albeit hammered) Canadian chap, a young French woman and a Swiss man. Unfortunately for them, the questions were very much aimed at native English speakers. However, with my apparent Christmas expertise we managed to finish 3rd. Not bad for a one-man team, eh?

Kampot offers a mix of nature, history, and culture – from waterfalls and national parks to pepper plantations and riverside landmarks. If you’re looking for some sightseeing ideas and sporty activities in Kampot, here are some options:

  • Popokvil Waterfall – A scenic waterfall in Bokor National Park, the ideal spot for short hikes and cooling off in nature.
  • Beetle Waterfall – Another tranquil spot for swimming and picnicking, less crowded than Popokvil.
  • Preah Monivong Bokor National Park – Vast jungle landscapes with panoramic views, wildlife, and remnants of French colonial settlements.
  • Bokor Hill Station – Explore the eerie yet fascinating ruins of a 1920s French resort, now offering sweeping mountain views.
  • Green Cathedral – A peaceful riverside attraction, ideal for photography and quiet reflection.
  • Seahorse Statue – A quirky riverside landmark and popular meeting point in town.
  • Kampot Adventure Tours – Offers kayaking, cycling, and guided excursions to explore Kampot’s countryside and river.
  • La Plantation – Famous for Kampot pepper, this organic farm provides tours, tastings, and insight into Cambodia’s culinary heritage.

Kampot is also a great destination if you need some downtime. After the sh*t show that was Sihanoukville, I really needed some time to unwind and do absolutely nothing. I had started to feel a bit of travel fatigue after 2+ months, going from Vietnam to Taiwan to Japan, back to Vietnam and then Cambodia. I needed to rest and chill.

Kampot seemed just the place to do that, so I really took it easy. Venturing into town, I explored the centre, enjoying the old French colonial architecture and cafe culture.

Kampot 1

The Kampot region is renowned for its pepper. Kampot pepper is exported worldwide and used by top chefs. In 2016 it received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. Dishes in the region often come topped with whole peppercorn clusters, adding a fruity, spicy kick.

Plodding around town, there was plenty of restaurants, but due to the slightly surprising number of elderly expats, they often pandered to the less adventurous. For every restaurant serving Khmer cuisine, there was one selling spaghetti Bolognese and fish and chips. I stumbled across a dumpling place called Ecran Noodle which, whilst not Khmer, did grab my attention due to the sight of the chef hand-making noodles. I ended up getting pork dumpling soup which, for a couple of dollars, was incredibly tasty. 

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Kampot pepper

After realizing I had spent way more in Cambodia than I expected, I decided to have the rest of my dinners at the local night market near my hostel. The Boker Night Market had lots of options but the stand-out was a chicken Khmer curry, which was way better than I expected. Whilst similar in flavor to neighboring Thailand, these curries were slightly milder but still packed with flavor. 

In addition to food, the market offered clothes, drinks and surprisingly a cinema. What was more surprising was that despite Frozen being the film on show, it was mostly middle-aged men watching it. Sadly I wasn’t around long enough to hear the Cambodian version of “Let it go” but I imagine it’s less annoying than the original.

One thing I did notice, not just in Kampot but across Cambodia in general, was the number of older Western men with much younger local partners. I’m usually very much an “each to their own” kind of person, but it did make me pause and think. Izzie and I discussed this a lot in Cambodia – about the large age gaps, whether these relationships are built on genuine connection, and whether both people are truly happy.

What we kept coming back to was the imbalance of power. In many cases, the woman seems financially dependent on the man, which inevitably changes the dynamic. Of course, there can be real benefits for her and her family, and it’s not our place to judge individual situations. But at the same time, it’s hard not to wonder whether some men are taking advantage of difficult circumstances. It’s a complex issue, and one that doesn’t have a simple answer.

But who knows? Maybe in 40 years’ time (if the world hasn’t ended), I’ll be chilling out eating fish and chips with my 30-year old Cambodian wife, getting judged by passersby! 


Kampot was a very pleasant town to stay in for a few days for a bit of down-time. There is lots to do if you are feeling more energetic than I was, such as kayaking, visiting salt flats, heading to Bokor Mountain or doing a tour of a Kampot pepper farm. However, if you want to laze around, doing very little, it’s a great place to do just that! 

Planning your trip to Cambodia? Check out my other blog posts about Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Kep and Angkor Wat to help you create the ultimate travel itinerary.

Ciao for now

Izzie, the Curious Sparrow

6 comments

  1. I totally agree with you about Cambodia especially the men with the young girls. Also we found it to be extremely dirty although we stayed at two very nice small boutique hotels in Phnom Penh. I loved the people though so friendly. I’m not sure we would go back though. I much preferred Laos.

    • I haven’t been to Laos but would like to. Unfortunately travel costs were very high when we wanted to go from Cambodia to Laos, but hopefully we can manage it next time we are in the area.

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